Being Careful
November 1
My reservation is confirmed and it looks like I'm gone. I must be careful this week. Carrie called. We went to Paradise twice and the DJ thought we were from London. Halloween party. My whole family called and I talked to Jeffrey about marrying my sister. Weird.
Shamblesed
October 18
Sunday again. To the base and back. This week was busy. Class on Saturday. I didn't see Young-sook once. I saw her tonight. She is rad but she doesn't love me. She is too worried about some other guy. I was just a passing thrill. Brian told me he is going home. He isn't on a contract like me so it's no big deal. I might die here but there is no honest way out except to tell Mr. Shin I am leaving and go. I got a letter from Loaf and Jeff. They love each other. Did Young-sook ever love me?! Referring to what she said to me last week, I asked her about it and she said, "So, what about it"? At least I have my book to read.
October 22
Referring to the question above: the answer is "no." I am convinced that I must leave here soon. Brian will leave in about 2 weeks. He told Mr. Shin. He was pissed, but what can he do about it? It's cold. I can't even stand the sight of Mr. Shin. My head spins for my worries.
October 28
I'm writing so sporadically. Twins won the World Series. I must jam. Tomorrow lunch with Mr. Shin. I wonder what he'll say when I tell him I'm leaving. I'll go home with no money. I am shamblesed.
Straight to Seoul
October 7
Long time. Chuseok. 5 day vacation. Young-sook came over today after we saw Mannequin together. She was too bored so she left. Lately it has been terrible. Maybe I'll just die. I think Young-sook is done with me. I only have 5 classes in October. We had a party here and it was dead. The only highlight was KHI Goddess Miss Kim coming. She called tonight and I am bored now. Brian and I will go to Suncheon and Seoul.
October 10
We didn't go to Suncheon. Straight to Seoul and we shopped like crazy. I bought two rad pairs of shoes. I love them. We bought tons of shirts and American food and there were so many box chicks. Seoul is paradise and I am trapped on the outside of it. Our new saying is: "That's Seoul." We bought [unintelligible] and a suit. We spent all of our money so we had to come home. There was no bus. We took the night train from Seoul to here. I talked to my dad too.
October 11
We got invited to a party on base. When we got there it was almost over. Though on the way I stopped and called Young-sook but she acted like she didn't even want to see me. I am now still deep in sadness. I called Vince. On the subway some lady's kid peed on my leg.
New Digs
September 30
"You better not turn your back on a Paradise"
September 20
Sunday. We didn't make it to Taegu. We hung out. Yesterday too, nothing. To Xanadu for free with two women whom I didn't want to be with. Tonight to 쉼표 for the last time.* Young-sook called later and she is my Sister of Mercy.** Mr. Shin's mum died.
September 23
Yesterday to Seo-myeon with Young-sook. She is box. Today to Yangsan and I met Miss Kim the goddess of KHI. I love her.***
*Certainly these are hollow words of empty promise. I most definitely kept going to 쉼표 for the culture and society. Oh, and obviously for the rest ;-)...
** "No Sister of Mercy oh don't cry for me. (Sister of Mercy) No Sister of Mercy it's all awright for me."
***I must've mentioned this goddess Miss Kim 10 times by now. Sadly, I have no recollection of her at all. I'm not even sure what I meant by "met" in this case. I already knew her by this time so I am not using the "nice to meet you" sense of "met." I don't recall any one-on-one "미팅" either. I am guessing I just ran into her in some unexpected fashion. Still, I wonder what it would be like to meet up today and talk it over. Prolly more awkward than cool I imagine.
My little sister got married nearly three weeks ago. After the wedding there was a reception/party where all the old school folks from the hometown come around to greet the new couple. It's a nice reunion of faces not seen for many moons. Lots of laughs, a few tears, the mini donut maker from the Saturday Farmer's Market was there making mini donuts. Go figure.
I caught up with a nice lady from the old hometown. Her husband is in Afghanistan with the Guard. Her son is home from Iraq missing one leg. Her sister is there with her. Many people thought I would marry the oldest daughter of that sister. Nope. I told her I see her son Jed (I didn't tell her I see him pulling hard and long on the hookah), she just rolls her eyes and says "Jed."
Later, I'm standing by myself loading carbs via the cinnamon-sugar mini donuts, and my Mom's old friend Marilyn walks up. She says, "Do you remember me"?
I think to myself: Of course I do; I had the biggest crush on you when I was younger. Should I tell her that? It might be funny...
But she's standing with her grisled old farmer husband, and my brain can't compute any mathematics that would have made it OK for me to have a crush on her when I was younger. So I holster the "I had a huge crush on you" line and we exchange pleasantries for a few. Mom later tells me Marilyn is 13 years older than I. She married in 1978 or 9. I would have been 13 or 14 when I was crushing. Nothing wrong with that I suppose...?
Maybe it wouldn't be such a great idea to "meet" the KHI Goddess Miss Kim again.
The Lick and the Snap
September 16
Class and nothing special. Young-sook came over and she was bored and I fear lest I am losing her. Everyday to Yangsan and I have too much free time. Nothing happens.
September 18
Well complain about nothing happening, catch this. Alex killed in Table tennis. I met Eun-sook and we all went to the Downtown where a huge fight ensued.* What can I do?
*And now, the rest of the story...
A new nightclub opened in one of the hotels down on Haeundae Beach. It was called "Lalique." We joked that Lalique was French for "The Lick." "Let's go to 'The Lick' tonight."
The DJ at The Lick was a British bloke with favorable music taste. Since Brian and I were commonly the only foreigners in there, he would play songs we liked and we would dance dance dance. Definitely a recipe for good times.
On this night, Brian and I were dance dance dancing when I noticed a group of Korean guys staring, pointing, and mocking our dance style. After enduring them for some time, I finally snapped. I'm not typically a violent type, don't look for or get into fist fights, don't recall ever punching anyone; I'm more of a verbal brawler you might say.
Anyway, I snapped. I charged over and gave the ring leader a solid two-handed push in the chest. That alone was probably more than was needed to convey my message, but I was in another's body it seems. He reeled backwards and fell down against one of the giant speakers on the edge of the dance floor. Before he could get up I was on him. I had my left knee in his gut and my left arm around his head, my right arm punching his face and head while I cradled it. His friends grabbed at my swinging right arm trying to pull me off, but I pushed them away and kept at him.
Finally they got us separated. Brian and I--sweating and fuming--went and sat down. The snappee, not much worse for the wear, came over a few minutes later attempting to apologize in English but I wasn't having any of it. I said "죽을래 (you wanna die)"? He went back to his friends and we left The Lick.
Cherry Blossom Tribute
Hometown USA
Sadly, I am not in Korea this spring so I cannot post a series of Cherry Blossom photos like so many others have done. Instead I have decided to post my own blossom photos from my property as a form of tribute. I hope you relish them as much as I.
Unplanned bloom against a cloudy sky, dappled by Autumn Blaze Maple:
Boss and Box?
September 4
Class and all. Yangsan. At night I met Young-sook. She is so rad to me. She will come over tomorrow.
September 5
My closets came. We re-arranged. Went to Spa. I bought some pants and went to the Casino and lost 30,000 won. Came home and Young-sook came over and she is so boss and box. I have 7 digits in my bank account. I'm a Won Millionaire. OK.
September 13
Sunday. Much has happened. Young-sook is always near me. The other day before her day off she dragged me off to a 여관. We spent the night there together. She is so rad. I can't help but feel that I am lucky to keep her attention for so long. I am spending too much money on useless things. Like the Casino for example...Carrie called long time 만에. She works at a company in Yangsan. Brian and I stayed in all day.
September 16.
Class and nothing special. Young-sook came over and she was bored and I fear lest I am losing her. Everyday to Yangsan and I have too much free time. Nothing happens.
The Strike
Sept. 3
Long time.* We rented a car and made money all night driving all over town.** It was a blast. I met Young-Sook and drove all over town to Gwang-An beach and back. I met her again the other night and she came over and I love her intensely. My student in Nam-Cheon Dong quit and I started teaching at Yangsan (Samchullyho Bike Company). I called home for Mom's birthday.
*Eight days without a single journal entry is the longest I went in Korea without writing something. My good friend Brian had just arrived to teach with me at KHI. From now on I use "we" to refer to the 2 of us.
**All of the company taxi drivers went on strike. There really was no way to get anywhere once the personal taxis shut down around dinner time. Brian and I went and rented a car for 12 hours and started picking up people and driving them to their destinations. I drove while Brian DJ-ed from a shoebox full of tapes he brought from the States. Blancmange and The Eurogliders got a lot of air time that night.
We picked up 2 couples from Gwang-An beach, piled the four of them in the back seat and drove them out to Gupo. With almost no other cars on the road, we flew. We blazed up the hill, through the tunnel, and down the hill. Think about that couple for a minute. You think they still tell their friends about that one time they got driven home by two speeding foreigners in a rented car with the windows down, and music blaring? I wonder.
Other highlights: a lone, semi-intoxicated girl walking down the street late that night. We pull up alongside and ask where she's going. She says where and I tell her to get in. She gets in and I tell her it will cost however much. She gets pissed and jumps back out and starts to walk away. I feel bad and drive slowly alongside trying to talk her into getting back in; I tell her I won't charge her. Eventually she gets in and off we go.
In On-Cheon-Jang there where throngs of people stranded with no way out of there. We returned there many times to pick up riders, telling others we'd be right back. A group of friends fold their loaded pal into the back seat and send us to some nearby apartments. We drop the guy, he overpays, and leaves. I still doubt he had any idea who drove him home that night. His friends probably had a good laugh at his expense.
At some nice apartment complex we pick up a very pregnant lady and her mother. Once we are all buckled in, I come flying out of there and am hauling ass around a bend with them both white-knuckling it in the back. Nobody else on the roads, windows down, music blaring. All of a sudden, sirens. I get pulled over by a motorcycle cop. The ladies in back are freaking out, thinking what we are doing is illegal, plus I was clearly speeding. As the copper walks up to the car, I put my head and arms out with palms up and say loudly in English: "What seems to be the problem officer"? He stops dead in his tracks. Looks at me. Waves his hands at me as if to say: "Go on asshole." We drive off laughing. What a couple of tools.
We refueled at least once and by 6 a.m. when we returned the car having driven all night, we had enough money to pay for the gas and the rental fee. Ahhhhh, good times.
I Am Beat
August 15
The 13th flew and yesterday I went to 송정 with some students. I burnt to a crisp all over. We swam and played. It was fun. After that I killed them in table tennis. Then to 쉼표. I am a strange man. I wanted to go there only to see if Ok-Jeong was there but I didn't want to go alone so I offered to buy the students a drink. How stupid. Anyway, she was there with Young-Sook. I had a brief word. I came home. Today another picnic and I was beat. We climbed high and came down. It was fun but I am beat. Johnson called. He and Mark might come but I doubt it. Did I write before that I doubted it?
August 16
Sunday. Home all day.
August 20
Time flew. Wednesday 5 a.m. Brian ding dong at my door and came in. That night I saw Young-Sook and we walked home together and decided to meet tonight and we had dinner and she was so sexy. She had jeans on and she is really sexy. I was amazed. I want to go around with her. She has no time. Today I received my 250 dollars for teaching a student at Nam-Cheon Dong. I am excited.
August 21
Class. To the Casino. I came out with 10,000 (Won) extra and taxi money. It was fun.
August 23
Yesterday to the picnic. Miss Kim didn't come. I was crushed. It was dead. She called me at Love's Gleaning. I love her. We went to Xanadu. It was dead. Miss Jeong is hammered. I went and lost 20,000 at the Casino. I was beat.
August 25
Two days of classes and it was dead. I want to die. I wanted to die. Young-Sook doesn't love me and I am crushed. I wanted to die.
The Dick Made the Wrong One
August 6
Class and over to Miss Yang's Aunt's house. I was tired after little sleep last night. I saw Ok-Jeong again at night but couldn't talk to her. I talked to Vince.
August 7
Class and Busan Bank (부산은행). I opened a 자유저축 (savings account). I met Ok-Jeong after class and we ate with her friend Young-Sook. She was rad too. We walked and talked. She wants to live alone and never marry. I wouldn't be afraid to be alone with her in a quiet dark private place. I would like being friends with her. Miss Yang told me she couldn't be friends with me. She blew it.
August 9
Sunday to Gwang-an. Miss Jeong is back. She gave me my tape that Carrie had. Also she bought me the new Psychedelic Furs album. Went looking for a new apartment with Mr. Shin. Nothing around so we may move to to 동일 park. We may buy it. I don't know. It is so very far from town. They say that the rich people are moving up here because the air is fresh and the subway is through.
August 11
Class and I went to NamPoDong to meet 미연 and 지연. They are twins and young. It wasn't too fun. So I went to see 지영 but she was nowhere. I am worried. Class and went to get my ring but the dick made the wrong one. I was pissed but held back.
August 12
Class and not much. I am feeling lonely again.
Uncuffed
It was the first time and the last time I ever got paid to work as an interpreter.
A Public Defender named “Amerigo” engaged my translation services on account of he was very frustrated because of a client he couldn’t communicate with. He thought the problem was a language barrier due to the client being Korean-American. We met at the County Courthouse where his client had already been behind bars for some 32 days. After passing all the security checks, Amerigo and I were escorted into a dingy holding cell where “Komidge”* was humbly sitting handcuffed in an orange jumpsuit. The cell reeked of body odor and stale sweat, and as we sat down, I could smell Komidge’s pungent breath from across the table. It stank as if he had survived for 32 days by sucking on garlic cloves and cigarettes without ever brushing his teeth.
Amerigo was not subtle about his distaste for this client and this case. He handed me the police report and curtly told me to translate it to Komidge and ask him what he had to say. I soon realized the communication problem was due more to the fact that Komidge was perhaps a bit simple, and very easily distracted. He would switch between Korean and English randomly, while showing an obvious preference for English. Whenever we got any momentum by me sticking to Korean, he would stop and ask me in English how I came to know Korean. It’s a common problem for Koreans to not be able to process the fact that someone so clearly not Korean could possibly be speaking the 조선말. It just does not compute.
The police report said that Komidge had made sexually suggestive gestures and comments to two little girls at a homeless shelter playground. As I was fumbling through my 한영영한 사전trying to translate the report aloud, I asked him if he had solicited sex from the two “girls (여자).” He reacted immediately to my use of the word “여자.” He got agitated enough to speak Korean and denied all the charges saying, “They weren’t ‘girls,’ they were 'young children' (어린이).” It was as if the distinction indicated a deeper sense of morality that would prevent one from doing the things Komidge was accused of. I told Amerigo what he said and shared my impression. Amerigo, visibly disgusted, got up and left the stinky cell.
Three weeks later Amerigo called and asked me to come appear before the judge and interpret for Komidge. He had struck a deal with the Prosecutor to lower the charge to some misdemeanor. The Prosecutor would request credit for the time already served if Komidge agreed to plead guilty to the lesser charge. Komidge, nearly crying, defiantly asserted his innocence. I asked him if he wanted out of jail. If so, all he had to do was cop to it. It clearly didn’t sit right with him, but he said he would. When the judge asked him if he agreed with the terms of the settlement, he paused for quite some time. The judge asked me what was going on. I turned and simply whispered to Komidge to say he was guilty. He bowed his head and with slumped shoulders, meekly whimpered “guilty.” The judge credited time served and closed the case with a crisp crack of the gavel.
Amerigo got up to leave, turned back to me and said, “Tell him he better leave town and never come back.” I feebly muttered “Freedom” to Komidge in his mother tongue and left the courtroom with a gnawing in the pit of my stomach.
I never saw nor heard from Amerigo or Komidge again.
*Names have been changed. Komidge is not a Korean name that I have ever heard. But neither was the alliteratively similar name that the client actually used.
The Best Way to Remove a Band-Aid
Over the next few weeks, Young-sook and I continued to see each other. But it was becoming more and more clear that she was losing interest.
One night after class I went down to a flower shop across the street from Spa Shopping and sent some flowers up to the Levi’s Corner for her. I asked the flower lady to write the card for me. I remember exactly what I asked her to write but it really was too pathetic for me to put down here. It worked. As soon as I walked back into KHI, I had a message from Young-sook. She wanted to meet.
We met at 쉼표 and ordered a couple OBs. Long story short…she told me she had a boyfriend. A Korean one. I didn’t believe her but I had no cards left to play. I asked her what she wanted me to do. She shrugged cutely and said: "그냥 가지 뭐."
Ouch.
Today she is likely a 40-something mother of a couple high-schoolers. She probably wears her hair like a helmet and putters around the house in 몸배 while her husband gets his drink on with his emotional mistress.
My Kind of Tour Guide
“No.”
“I’ll take you on a tour of one.” I remember her exact words: “구경시켜 줄께.”
Priceless.
She turned us down a sidestreet and wordlessly steered us into 세종관 여관. Up the stairs I followed, she said something to the owner and handed him what looked to be a single 만원자리. He, in turn, handed over a room key. I got the distinct impression she had done this all before.
There was no bed in the room. A thin pad on the floor and two hard block pillows. While I puzzled and giggled to myself, she disappeared into the bathroom. When she returned she was wearing a long-sleeved button-up dress shirt over her panties. Where that shirt came from I have no idea.
The next morning, for some reason that I myself cannot explain, I left Young-sook at the 세종관 very early to go teach my morning “free-talking” class. My most hated class.
I had pretty much understood a 여관 to be a cheap, no frills motel, but I didn’t grasp the unspoken significance of 여관 in Korean culture until many years later. Many years after my first all-night guided tour of one with Spa Shopping Levi’s Corner’s Kim Young-sook. She was a true ambassador of Korean culture and I celebrate her to this day.
My Mind, An Overnighter
My favorite kiosk mate of hers was called Young-sook. She had been drinking at Miss Yang’s bar the night Ok-jeong took me for a walk and the power went out. Young-sook was on the tall side, and slim, she wore her wavy black hair long with short bangs. She didn’t have the typical flat back side like most Koreans who grew up sleeping on the floor; in fact she had a nice hump for a rump. She once remarked how people thought she had a “Western ass.” I had to concur. When I would visit the Levi’s Corner she would just stand there laughing without even covering her mouth. I laughed too.Once I showed up at Spa and Ok-jeong was not there. Young-sook was there alone. We made a bold and secret plan to meet on the sly. I can’t even remember how it came up, but Ok-jeong never knew about it. We went out a couple times. She came to my apartment a few times. She gave me a stuffed teddy bear that I took to bed with me every night for a long time.
One night I rented a car and drove us down to Haeundae Beach where we sat in a 포장마차 and shared raw sea cucumber and a couple bottles of 소주. The 소주 was working and Young-sook told me she had the next Friday off from Spa and she could tell her parents she was staying with her sister up in Yangsan so we could stay out all night and play…if I wanted.
Ummm. “OK.”
A Power Outage
KHI Institute was on the third floor of an office building one block from the main entrance to BNU (Busan National University) so the majority of the students were of college age. Mr. Shin had sternly advised me against dating any of my students. "That would be too scandalous," he said. (Great word Shin!) Of course it didn’t stop him from doing it. Neither did the fact that he was married. But that’s another story.
One night after my last class I went downstairs to Miss Yang's Bar (the aptly named "쉼표") for a couple of unwinders. Miss Yang and I had become friendly, she was studying English upstairs, she owned the bar and gave me free sandwiches for lunch almost everyday (with the crusts cut off). I liked to talk to her because she would give me the straight dope on the subtleties of Korean culture.
As I sat alone at the bar one particular evening, there was a rambunctious tableful of young women enjoying a variety of alcoholic beverages. They smoked, laughed, drank, and had a good ol’ time. Such a scene is pretty rare so I stared at it—in 1987 it was the Korean men who were known as "the Irish of Asia," not the women. Picking up on the fact that I was intrigued, Miss Yang employed an age-old Korean hostess trick and promised to introduce me if I sent over a round of OB Lagers. I agreed.
"White, this is Ok-jeong. Ok-jeong, this is White. He is a teacher upstairs at the 학원."
"Hello Mr. White. Do you like walking?"
"Yes."
"Ok. We'll take a walk later. Don't leave."
Me, like an obedient puppy, I stayed.
That was pretty forward for a Korean girl at that time. Ok-jeong was tall for a Korean, thickset (dare I say big-boned?), somewhat square-headed with the popular shoulder-length bobbed haircut, the standard black, thick-rimmed glasses worn most likely for fashion. She looked more naughty than hotty but I was interested in spite of myself. An hour later it was stormy out and we were walking across the BNU campus, "Are you a student?" I nervously stammered in busted Korean.
"No. I work at the Levi's Corner at Spa Shopping near 온천장. Do you know it? I never went to college, just started working at Spa two years ago. It's really fun. Those girls back at 쉼표 all work at Spa with me, but only one of them works at the Levi's corner. She is Young-Sook. She is my best friend, the same age as me. We went to school together at On-Cheon Girls High School. We like to go out after work and drink alcohol sometimes, but my mother doesn't like it. My father is in Saudi Arabia right now. He has been there for one year and a half. Miss Yang said you teach English at KHI. Let's sit down. I'm going to smoke a cigarette."
I didn't think there was much more to talk about but she was on fast-forward and smoked and talked non-stop until she decided it was time to start walking again. "Let's hold hands," she proposed as the weather worsened. Soon we were at the front door of my apartment and the wind was kicking up. Before any awkwardness could set in I grabbed her and kissed her. She leaned in. Her flavor was a pleasant blend of smoky citrus and alcohol. She was a little drunk. I walked her in without asking. She gracefully found the floor in my bedroom. Around 2:30 a.m. the power went out.
"White, perhaps did you tell the power to go out"?
Hooked?
August 4, 1987
Andy was unhealthy and the 학원 seems a shambles and I am the only stable man. So I think that says a lot. Tomorrow is payday. I am feeling lonely lately but I don't necessarily feel like going about with certain students. Today during my nap I awakened to find myself lost without any clue as to the time of day or my whereabouts. I was freaking out.
August 5
Nothing much*. I was feeling really terrible about my complexion but at 쉼표 Miss Yang introduced Ok-jeong to me. She seemed rad so we talked. After, we walked home and she came in and she was forward. She was hooked. I needed her for then. We will meet in the future. She had had much to drink. I will be busy. I got paid 907,500.
*Nothing much? That is certainly underselling what happened that night as well as what is here-to-follow...
The Golden Ring of Entitlement
August 3 1987
Class and Mr. Moon is gone and Mr Cho too. I had some 보신탕* and got measured for my gold ring**. 59,000 won. I was pleased. My parents called last night for some chat.
*'Tis the season for the dog meat stew, eh? Feels like I'm eating it almost every day.
**Mr. Shin was trying to show some gratitude and/or bribe me to be happy so I might stick around longer. Kind of like a 3-month performance bonus. So he and I went to a jewelry store and picked out a gold ring for me. He had more input into the selection than I did, but in the end "I was pleased."
Looking back I strike myself as someone with a misplaced sense of entitlement. As if the ring was my god-given right. As if it was owed to me. It's not like people went around giving me jewelry back then (they don't today either...). But I can't find anywhere in my journal where I wrote about gratitude. In fact, I distinctly recall being pissed off when I went to pick up the ring and it wasn't exactly the design I had ordered. I was convinced Mr. Shin had gone back and changed the order to be more like the one he had liked, possibly even a cheaper one. A conspiracy!
If you've been following this series for a while you are probably expecting me to post a picture of the ring. Alas, I don't have it. But to tell now what happened to it would be to spoil the excitement of November 1987.
Say Goodbye to Ornamentation
July 26
Yesterday to a party on base. At night to SeoMyeon alone. Today home all day and the weather looks like rain continued.
July 29
MTW all went by the same. A few crisises but they are almost all solved. I got a letter from Brian. He will be here in 20 days. Yesterday I got a few rays. This had better be a good weekend or I might die. I saw Miss Jang yesterday. She was smiling and all. I feel bad. I want to save money. I will try to save at least 500,000 each month. I will use this weekend to become content again.
July 30
More crisis situations and as of now the arbitrations are still proceeding. Tomorrow is Friday and time really flies.
August First
Yesterday after class we went to the casino and it was fun. Mr. Moon had luck but blew everything. Andy cranked 400,000 but lost probably most. I lost 90,000 of my own and 30 that Andy gave me. I was really unlucky. We stayed until after 5 a.m. So I slept 2 or 3 hours and then today wandered about aimlessly. Met some radsters from Seoul. They wanted me to go to the Downtown but I said no. Came home. I'm beat.
August 2
Out for some 보신탕. I feel a bit paranoid after what Mr. An said. Dinner. Home. I was forced to remove my ornamentation for fear of infection.
That's Rad.
At one point I made some comment and Ruben responded: "That's rad." Obviously he was taking the piss out of me, but it is obvious to anyone who reads White on Rice that I used the word "rad" more than its fair share back in the 80's.
I went back and counted. So far, in 34 posts, I have used a version of the word "rad" 22 times. But since I am being true to what I wrote in my journal back then, I imagine we'll see it many more times. It must've been the thing to say back then. One certainly doesn't hear it much these days. I know I don't use it as much, if ever.
I think I'll start using it again. After all, that would be the rad thing to do.
WBC: 2 Thoughts
Ornamentation?
July 20, 1987
Class and nothing special. No one noticed my ornamentation*. Good. I got a haircut and slept. I was late for class and afterwards Chuck told me a story about his affair with a married woman. I was fascinated.
July 21
Class and 보신탕 then more class and dinner and 기태 called and he wants to come down this weekend.
July 22
Class and new student was Mr. Choi. He is an "avid golfer." 3 memberships. I was very jealous so I went to Sajik 골프장 but I was hitting terrible and was embarrassed. I left after acquiring a 6,000 "dollar" golf glove for nothing. I should pay for it but I was short at the time. I talked to Vince tonight. He is very cool.
July 23
On the verge of another Friday...Class and I called Miss Jeong to get my tapes. She was on her way to Seoul for a month. I barely caught her and got my tapes, Carrie went with her but she didn't even say a word to me. I think she is lame somewhat. I will try to tell 기태 to come next weekend if possible. I must go to KBS on Saturday.
July 24
Class and I jammed on class to go to the Paradise Beach Casino. It was a rush and I came out even. Mr. Heil lost 50,000 and Mr. Moon 20,000. Right now Mr. Heil owes me 30,000 but he might not pay it all back to me. At night to Bulkogi dinner. 기태 hasn't called or showed but I didn't go to the 역. Sometimes I don't even know.
*WTF?
Standing at the Back of the Breadline
July 19, 1987
Incredible. The 17th evening went to Xanadu with Miss Jeong. Mistake. I think I must receive all of my tapes and sever all relationships in that area. Anyway, she met a guy and I hung out with his friend 기태. We met 해연 (spelling?). She is sexy but 35*. We played, got milked, and went home. We met Saturday and played. We rented a LeMans. It was a blast. We cruised. He picked up a chick and 6 of us went to Xanadu. I thrashed on Carrie because I wanted 수영. She jammed. They both jammed. We drove all over, picked up people in 서면 and took them home--7 people. I stopped and talked to 유진. She is a rad chick. We drove around yelling out the window at people. Today we cruised around, met Grandi (spelling?) and cruised Nampo-dong saying random Korean words to strangers. Home and I feel a bit disillusioned.
March 18, 2009
When I read entries like that, I think: "Who is this person? Who writes like that"? But I guess that's looking at things through the rosy bifocals of my early 40's. I was living the dream, right?
I don't remember even the faintest thing about 해연, 수영, or 유진. One was "sexy," another "I wanted," and the last was a "rad chick." One would think I'd remember something. Anything? Nothing.
I do remember 기태, however. He was a Korean-American kid (younger than me I believe) who was summering in Seoul and partying in Busan on the occasional weekend. He didn't really speak any Korean so were united in our foreignerness. Possibly worse for him than me. We met on a Friday, hung out all day Saturday driving around in a rented car. Went to the Club on Saturday night, and stayed in touch for at least another week after he returned to Seoul. Of course, I wouldn't know him if we passed in the street today.
I also remember he put his Crowded House cassette tape in and we sang at the top of our lungs as we drove around. Great album that. I impressed him with my knowledge of how they evolved from Split Enz, and, tit for tat, he turned me on to Hunters and Collectors. That in turn later led me to multiple blissout sessions (in the Roboseyo tradition) to this excellent track:
*If I were writing this bit today, I am sure I would use the word "and" instead of "but."
"Fraternizing in Hell"
July 17, A.M.:
Up late. It's Friday, no class, a holiday. The night before was the rad typhoon but I was fraternizing in hell*. Then yesterday was class and then we went to The Bistro. I met Miss Shin. She was rad I thought. Then at night I went to the downtown with some students. it was packed and full of plenty of roxies. I met Hye-Jin from Seoul. She was staying at Hangook Condo. I was deeply impressed but to no avail. After separation my heart was full of her and this morning too. Now I have today and tomorrow to blow.
*Here's what really happened on July 16. I'm not thrilled about including this particular portion, and have tried and failed to write it several times. Apologies.
The forecast called for an overnight typhoon. Not uncommon in Busan but unheard of back home. After the last class of the evening, Mr. Moon (a Korean dude with a Canadian passport who taught a couple classes at our institute), Andy (an American--married to a Korean gal--who also taught a class or two), and I went down to the casino. The casino was a sort of getaway for us, a place where Koreans were not even allowed unless they held a foreign passport. Hordes of young Korean agasshis worked there, eager to take orders (one could even get a dish of ice cream brought to their seat at a Blackjack table) and deal cards. We escaped there, had a few drinks, played some table games, and killed a few hours while the typhoon gained strength.
By the time we left the casino, the wind was blowing pretty hard and the rain was starting to spit. We piled in a cab but instead of heading home, we went for a nightcap. Andy directed the taxi to what was clearly a regular stop for him. The Ajumma greeted him by name and walked us through the empty place, out the back door, and into a small room that stood off from the main structure. We sat and waited.
After a bit, a side door opened and in came a young woman with a tray of fruit and several tall bottles of beer. She placed the tray in the center of the room and left. Before we could get the bottles opened, three young ladies entered. One was a bit older than the other two. She greeted Andy familiarly and they both giggled. The other two sat on either side of Mr. Moon and myself.
They dimmed the lights and plied us with drinks and fruit. Mr. Moon asked me if I liked the girl who was feeding me bites of fruit. Since none of the girls spoke English, I told him she was wasn't very cute. It was more hurtful than necessary, and probably spoken more out of discomfort than anything else, but I certainly didn't expect it to be translated. It was translated and she was hurt. She left the room in a huff.
Her replacement was quite a bit larger; I'm pretty sure she outweighed me. But I wasn't cruel enough to send her away too. She cozied up to me and immediately worked my shirt off. Next came hers. We danced an odd kind of slow dance without music, her bare breasts and belly pressed against me. Andy and his partner sat fiddling and giggling over in the corner.
The next morning on the way to work, the streets were littered with debris. Tree limbs blocked the road, signs, and all kinds of trash were strewn all over. It looked nothing like the place I knew when I went to bed the night before. But July 17 had only just begun...
'Tis the Season for Foot Fungus and Dog Meat Stew
July 9, 1987
Class and I sent one package. Went to get my shoes but they weren't what I wanted plus they were big. We'll see. I went and had 보신탕. I bought some 무좀약. It stung worse than anything in the world.
July 10
Class and down to Daeshin to get some papers documented and then to have some 보신탕 and evening class. Tomorrow to KBS and no more plans.
July 11
In the morning to KBS and back. I had planned to go golfing and then go play at the Bistro but on the way to the green net driving range I met Lee Me Ja. She offered to buy me a drink so I accepted. I offered to take her to a movie, she accepted. Then we had dinner. We saw 안개기둥. The sound was terrible. My Korean is very poor. I should practice, study, and concentrate... Only about 6 hours with a student I hardly know. It was fun though.
July 13
Mr. Shin's mother is very sick. Lung cancer. That's too bad. Today to Wendy's.
July 14
Class and the Bistro alone. I saw some rad videos. Class and no Han Mi Hap Dong. I called Carrie. It was a mistake to get involved. I almost feel a little used to aloneness. I ate 주물럭* alone today.
*Jumulleok (주물럭), beef short steaks marinated with sesame oil.
Who is Captain Preston?
Independence Day. Went to the Chosun Beach Hotel and ate an expensive small American breakfast then a Wendy's hamburger. It was fair. I met a young woman. I met Mr. Lee and Miss Cha. We chatted while I saw some rad videos*. I would be content almost to come home. I got a haircut. It should work. Seeing the Heaven 17 videos was the turning point in deciding to move the hair back. Also helpful was the movie on TV including Captain Preston. Mr. Shin bought me a fan. The weather is hot.
July 5
Vince called. He is cool but he seems much different. Tomorrow is payday.
July 6
Class and a nap. Payday. Take home was 850,000. Not much else.
July 7
Class and after it I met Mr. Moon and his class. Some radsters. I am privately digging one called "보경." She is only 18. But fair. Mr. Moon tried to shove us together but she wouldn't have it. Heaven 17 is rad. I opened up a savings account and paid for my stereo. Brian** called and said he will come. I hope all works out fine.
July 8
Today I learned "hoyden." Today a letter from Mom and Brian. Not much. I saw the second half of Platoon today. It is so intense. I am bored with my morning classes already but my last class is very talkative which is nice.
What I left unwritten:
*Near the Institute, I found a 다방 (the place was called "The Bistro," more on it later) that plays music videos on a huge TV. The place is practically empty in the afternoons when I have breaks from classes. The VJ has a sweet collection of videos that I really enjoy. Obviously Heaven 17 figures prominently in there. He lets me sit in the VJ booth and choose which ones to play. It is like my safe haven where I can sate my tastes for home.
**A friend from home who is planning to come work with me at KHI Institute. This process was set in motion before I left the states, but gained earnest momentum when Pat bailed.
It's getting hot in here
Don't ask me why 'cuz I have no clue. Before today I hadn't even opened it in probably 20 years. It looks like I used it for a while but quit barely a few letters into the alphabet. My handwriting was terrible; childlike scratchings. I did study Japanese for 2 years at University, but we had textbooks for that.
One might expect Carrie to have given me Korean study books, but she was a bit Japan-obsessed. I already mentioned I have a picture of her in a Kimono standing in front of a Japan Travel poster. Years after we separated, I heard a third-hand rumor that she was in Japan working as a "hostess." No idea if it's true or not.
March 7, 2009
I was so proud he was practicing his Korean...
June 21, 1987
I rode shotgun. We made it onto the freeway and I had a moment of anxiety when I looked over at the speedometer and saw we were going 100. Surprised the little Pride (later bought by Ford and sold in the USA as the Festive) could go that fast. Panic. Math. Number crunching. Another look at the speedometer. Big numbers. Little numbers. Relax dude, the big numbers are KPH and the small numbers are MPH. Going 100 is only 62 MPH. Ok.
We stopped along the way in the middle of nowhere and went into an old looking restaurant. We ate some meat and had some Soju and Makeolli. Even the driver. Then we got back in the Pride and pressed on for the capitol of the ancient Shilla Kingdom.
We visited a traditional village at some point that day. The guys got together and bought me a hand-carved wooden mask of the Yangban. It probably goes without saying that I still have it:
A Slippery Slope
June 15, 1987
Class. Home. Carrie came over. She gave me Hawaiian shorts. We talked and kissed. She was nervous and inexperienced. I dig her. We left and I was to be late for class. Trying to take a taxi. Mr. Shin came and I was shaky. I rode off. She loves me which I want for now but later who knows.
June 17
Carrie came again. She is cool. She wanted to learn the French Kiss. After some hesitation...Today I went to Mr. Park's nice house. Went to Haeundae with him and his sister and Mr. An. We may go to Kyoungju to play.
June 21
Thursday Carrie came. Friday night met Carrie for a late night. I enjoy just being with her. Saturday haircut and to Kyoungju with Mr. An too. To the Condo and about. Lots of Japanese. Miss Hwang came. She seems like a good friend to them. A little easy. At night to the night club. Absolutely no one there. Back and I was pretty bored. Sunday up late and came right home.
June 22
Class and spent another day with Carrie. She is rad. Next month it looks like I will get all new students. I will miss some of my cooler students. I wasn't excited when I first heard it but I am OK. Recently I have felt like going to America but today I felt like I could stay for the time. Also I felt Mr. Shin is milking for the joint class concept (한미 합동).
June 23
Class and Carrie and I cruised downtown and around. Nothing much. She is cool. I lost control once today on Miss Kim [institute secretary]. For no reason. I was sorry.
2009. March 5. What I wrote and what I didn't write.
There was a little convenience store right across from my apartment building. I would buy the occasional Ramen or Choco-Pie there (secretly I ate tons of Choco-Pies, but only the Orion brand; not the Lotte brand). What I bought at that store was never enough to please the really old woman who ran the place. She often asked how I survived, what I ate, who cooked for me, etc. I never understood most of what she said, but I tried to use her for local knowledge; looked like she had nothing better to do...
I asked her where to get my comforter washed and she told me to just give it to her and she would take care of it. The next day she returned it. Not only was it washed, but she had hand sewn a matching pink sheet onto it to work as a duvet cover. She never asked for anything in return, just to shop at her store more often. Too sweet.
One day I walked over to the store and she was plucking the gray hairs out of another woman's head. They cackled out loud without covering their mouths and took great joy in trying to teach the foreigner how to say: "새치를 뽑다."
One afternoon Carrie left my apartment and I went across to the little store. The old lady was holding her bible and looking very concerned. The gist of her message to me that day was that if boys and girls spend too much time together, eventually their skin will end up touching and it's all downhill to hell from there.
My Best Friend is a Pioneer
June 7, 1987
Sunday. Slept in and went to the 학원 and cut out a rad ad from a magazine and then went to the base and enjoyed a hamburger (delivered to the gate). Went to Haeundae and cruised. Home and spent it in.
June 8
Monday to class. The dude brought my stereo.* It is OK.
June 9
Class and lovely weather. Carrie came over for a while. She is really smart and attractive** and I dig her but she has too many secrets. Lately Mr Moon is a dick and he pulled dick and told me in class that he needs me to be better. I think he is a dick. I was pissed. I mean nothing to them, why do I worry so much for them?
June 12
Went to Young-Do and around there. Mr. Moon hasn't been to class since Tuesday. Hmmm... There are serious demonstrations going on in front of the university these days. Korea Times had a headline with "미국놈들". I don't care. Went and played some table tennis. It was fun. Last night Carrie and Miss Jeong and I went to a dance place. We talked and danced. Carrie and I danced together slow and she is rad. I wanted to rifle her but I couldn't. Tonight we talked for a while on the phone. She tried to tell me she and Miss Jeong are "bananas." Interesting theory. "Yellow skin, white on the inside."
June 14
Yesterday no time. Met the rad duckies and changed tapes, dinner and the "downtown." Expensive but fun. We danced. There were many radsters. I am really impressed with Carrie. I called her and we talked and are apparently hung up on each other. Am I hung up? I think so but why? And is it OK? I don't know. She asked me why I came. Why did I? I would love to love her. But for how long? I've only been here one month. I don't know. Tomorrow is hoop. She said she was coming.
*Yes, I still have it. It's nearly 22 years old:
**Secretly I wonder what the protocols are for posting pictures of somebody one hasn't seen or heard from in over 20 years. Somewhere I think I have a super cute picture of her in a Kimono standing in front of a tourism poster of Japan.
Culture Shock Photo Series Part 3
On the way to the landfill?

On the way to the landfill?

Next time you get to thinking your job stinks...
Cutlure Shock Photo Series Cont'd
The Market
!Warning: Pictures of dead animals (errr food) below. Sensitive eyes beware!
I was fascinated by the 시장 from the first time I set foot in one. The energy, the activity, the variety... I loved wandering the 5-Day Market in 구포 (that was the first place I saw dogs sliced lengthwise from nose to anus and lined up for sale like sides of beef. It was also the first place I saw a cat with its skin off--it, too, for sale for its meat.).
I could spend hours in the early mornings at 자갈치 just taking in the variety and mystery of the sea creatures (once, in 1997, I stood watching in amazement as a hard-working man deftly peeled the skin off eel after eel and then sliced them up into perfect cross-section circles. An 아줌마 working nearby noticed that both the eel slicer and myself were lacking in the dome hair department. She cracked a joke about how he should teach me to use the knife and we could start an International Baldness Co-operative, and I swear the earth shook from the ripple-effect of granny cackle that passed through that place.).
It strikes me that travelers (or foreigners in a foreign land) take pictures of things for different reasons. Maybe they see something they really want to remember, or something they really want to make fun of, or something that is just plain shocking. The reason would most often be a reflection of the photographer's current level or stage of culture shock (Honeymoon, Negotiation, Adjustment). I know I have photos from all those stages.
This random shot of a market scene could very easily have come from today in Seoul at NamDaeMun market, with grannies squatted behind perfect-looking veggies. But it came from 1987.
Here are a few shots of food from 1987.Weekends with Han, Part 2
May 25, 1987
To Kwangan yesterday and Miss Jeong is rad and she has rad friends. We went to the army base and it was OK. Fairly crowded. Today to class and Miss Chang called and we went and played with 2 of her friends. It was OK.
May 28
Time cruises. Mr. Shin has been hassling me about his book. It bothers me. Miss Jeong's raddest friend* came to the 학원. She was interviewed by me and she makes me quiver**, she is so rad and beautiful. She will be in my class***. I am out of money and pretty pissed off. It all came to a head at once. The free-talking class was at my throat and then the travel queen got into it. They are somewhat dissatisfied. So I taught them "ask me if I care."
May 29
Today was the last day of class for this month only to resume on Monday. No more free-talking. Today to Yangsan****. Well not so much to be excited about the weekend. Tomorrow I have to go to KBS and do that stupid program again. We will probably do it weekly. It bothers me because we do it for free and second because it's on Saturday.
May 30
A haircut, a 목욕, to KBS. Saw Jee-young. She is rad but I don't think she cares too much for me. Wandered about aimlessly asking myself what am I doing here. I was very out of it, still am.
May 31
Sunday. Went to Kwangan Beach and it was OK. Missed the NBA. Looks like the Lakers and the Celtics in the finals. Talked with Miss Jeong and her rad friend*. I think they should be my friends. To Hialeah. Tomorrow to Nam Po Dong.
June 3
Monday to Nam Po Dong. Today I went to Hialeah and bought $100 worth of eel skin. It was fine. Miss Kim* is very very wondrous and great.
June 5
Yesterday after class I had a chance to chat with Carrie* for a while. She is fabulous and great. I lent her my Tin Tin tape. She is charming. Tomorrow I had decided to go to Seoul but now I don't know. I could stay and party but I don't know. I don't know. Today to KBS and back. Pay day. Take home was 606,000 because I had already taken an advance of 130,000. Next month I will crank.
June 6
Saturday. I didn't go to Seoul. It was really hot and my face got much sun. Miss Kim* is rad and sexy but I couldn't tell her. Weekends really suck. Why did I come? I know I shouldn't think that but I do on the weekends.
Footnotes added Feb 15, 2009
*Miss Jeong's raddest friend, Miss Kim, and Carrie are all the same person.
**An obvious reference to the Tin Tin song on the tape I later lent to her. I had previously made a copy for Miss Jeong because she was really into music. She, in turn, gave me a copy of Scritti Politti, which I had not heard before but quite enjoyed. "I got a perfect way to make the girls go crazy."
***No surprise there. I would conduct an interview with prospective students to determine their level and assign them to a class. Not a big shock that I put the hot girl in my own class.
****Sam Chully Ho Bicycle company had a site in Yangsan. I drove up and taught English to a group of executives. These guys and this outside job will come up again later. If this were a movie soundtrack, some ominous and dramatic music would be playing...
Weekends with Han
May 15, 1987 Pusan, South Korea
The Subway opened to Joongang Dong. I didn't ride it. Tomorrow is Saturday. I will have to go to the mountain*.
May 16
To the mountain with Mr. Shin and Miss Han. It was cold and boring but we ate very much. After that I drove us to Nae Won Sa and then I went downtown with Miss Han. We walked around and met Mr. Kim and his girlfriend. They are cool. I sent Miss Han off and walked around and bought Talk Talk - Colour of Spring**. Wow I am a shambles. It is a lot different than what I thought it would be here.

May 19
After class, Mr Kim the Tiger*** took me to Kwang-An beach. We ate 15,000 worth of Bulkogi. It was fun. Today class and after I went to BNU. Traditional wedding was boring but I got some good sun. Except for Intermediate and Free Talking class, I love it. We'll see.
May 20
Mom and Dad called last night. They think they are worried. Time flies. Class and not much else. Kim Ae-jeong**** is rad. Tomorrow to KBS and we will do an English program. FOR FREE. Thanks Mr. Shin. I forgot Dad's B-day.
May 21
Class and nothing new. We went to KBS and recorded for broadcast of English. We did it for free. Back to class and tear gas***** poured in and we hated it. After class a little fish and some Udong. I would rather make more money. Nothing much to write.
The biggest difference between a blog and a journal (aside from the whole words in ether vs ink and paper thing) is the fact that one writes a blog hoping at least somebody reads it, and one writes a journal thinking nobody but oneself reads it. Unless you turn famous and die and your biographer gets his/her hands on it, that is. But that's certainly not the case here. There's quite some problems with writing something thinking no one else will ever read it. First, it's not very readable. Second, and most significant, 22 years later the writer (me, in this case) cannot even remember much about the events he recorded.
Footnotes added Feb 14, 2009:
*I have no idea what mountain to which this journal entry refers. It sounds like I had to ride the donkey to the oracle to receive higher learning or something. I don't remember. But I am sure that I was the only person not dressed in full-on mountain climbing gear just for a casual stroll up a hill.
**Yes I still have the tape. Of course I own the CD too now. "Baby, life's what you make it." Great album indeed.
***I have no recollection of this dude. It's too bad too because his nickname makes him sound really cool. And a bit scary.
****I have no recollection of this "rad" chick. A single teardrop.
*****With the close proximity of the Institute to BNU, it was quite common in the summer of 1987 to be overcome with tear gas and Anti-American sentiment.
Seascapes
May 1987 Pusan, South Korea
I grew up in a small high-desert town of about 14,000 people. From the back window of our house I could see the night lights at the closest ski resort. My parents, on the other hand, grew up in Los Angeles very near the ocean. They both spent a lot of time at the beach and in the salty water. Me, not so much.
One day in class, I mentioned to my students that I wanted to get out of Pusan and see some scenery. One student offered to take a group of us to his hometown of 충무 in Kyoung Sang South Province. I jumped at the chance. A handful of us piled in a bus one weekend and headed to the seaside/countryside.
I don't remember much about the trip or the students who went along, but these 20-year old slides scanned to digital still capture the beauty of that day:





















