Busan, South Korea 1987
July 26
Yesterday to a party on base. At night to SeoMyeon alone. Today home all day and the weather looks like rain continued.
July 29
MTW all went by the same. A few crisises but they are almost all solved. I got a letter from Brian. He will be here in 20 days. Yesterday I got a few rays. This had better be a good weekend or I might die. I saw Miss Jang yesterday. She was smiling and all. I feel bad. I want to save money. I will try to save at least 500,000 each month. I will use this weekend to become content again.
July 30
More crisis situations and as of now the arbitrations are still proceeding. Tomorrow is Friday and time really flies.
August First
Yesterday after class we went to the casino and it was fun. Mr. Moon had luck but blew everything. Andy cranked 400,000 but lost probably most. I lost 90,000 of my own and 30 that Andy gave me. I was really unlucky. We stayed until after 5 a.m. So I slept 2 or 3 hours and then today wandered about aimlessly. Met some radsters from Seoul. They wanted me to go to the Downtown but I said no. Came home. I'm beat.
August 2
Out for some 보신탕. I feel a bit paranoid after what Mr. An said. Dinner. Home. I was forced to remove my ornamentation for fear of infection.
That's Rad.
The other night, March Madness 2009 found me enjoying hoops and adult beverages with some friends. Honeybear came too.
At one point I made some comment and Ruben responded: "That's rad." Obviously he was taking the piss out of me, but it is obvious to anyone who reads White on Rice that I used the word "rad" more than its fair share back in the 80's.
I went back and counted. So far, in 34 posts, I have used a version of the word "rad" 22 times. But since I am being true to what I wrote in my journal back then, I imagine we'll see it many more times. It must've been the thing to say back then. One certainly doesn't hear it much these days. I know I don't use it as much, if ever.
I think I'll start using it again. After all, that would be the rad thing to do.
At one point I made some comment and Ruben responded: "That's rad." Obviously he was taking the piss out of me, but it is obvious to anyone who reads White on Rice that I used the word "rad" more than its fair share back in the 80's.
I went back and counted. So far, in 34 posts, I have used a version of the word "rad" 22 times. But since I am being true to what I wrote in my journal back then, I imagine we'll see it many more times. It must've been the thing to say back then. One certainly doesn't hear it much these days. I know I don't use it as much, if ever.
I think I'll start using it again. After all, that would be the rad thing to do.
WBC: 2 Thoughts
1. MLB might want to consider changing their title series name to something other than the "World Series."
2. The WBC winners used their sideburns to pay homage to the greatest TV series of all time:
Ornamentation?
Busan, South Korea
July 20, 1987
Class and nothing special. No one noticed my ornamentation*. Good. I got a haircut and slept. I was late for class and afterwards Chuck told me a story about his affair with a married woman. I was fascinated.
July 21
Class and 보신탕 then more class and dinner and 기태 called and he wants to come down this weekend.
July 22
Class and new student was Mr. Choi. He is an "avid golfer." 3 memberships. I was very jealous so I went to Sajik 골프장 but I was hitting terrible and was embarrassed. I left after acquiring a 6,000 "dollar" golf glove for nothing. I should pay for it but I was short at the time. I talked to Vince tonight. He is very cool.
July 23
On the verge of another Friday...Class and I called Miss Jeong to get my tapes. She was on her way to Seoul for a month. I barely caught her and got my tapes, Carrie went with her but she didn't even say a word to me. I think she is lame somewhat. I will try to tell 기태 to come next weekend if possible. I must go to KBS on Saturday.
July 24
Class and I jammed on class to go to the Paradise Beach Casino. It was a rush and I came out even. Mr. Heil lost 50,000 and Mr. Moon 20,000. Right now Mr. Heil owes me 30,000 but he might not pay it all back to me. At night to Bulkogi dinner. 기태 hasn't called or showed but I didn't go to the 역. Sometimes I don't even know.
*WTF?
July 20, 1987
Class and nothing special. No one noticed my ornamentation*. Good. I got a haircut and slept. I was late for class and afterwards Chuck told me a story about his affair with a married woman. I was fascinated.
July 21
Class and 보신탕 then more class and dinner and 기태 called and he wants to come down this weekend.
July 22
Class and new student was Mr. Choi. He is an "avid golfer." 3 memberships. I was very jealous so I went to Sajik 골프장 but I was hitting terrible and was embarrassed. I left after acquiring a 6,000 "dollar" golf glove for nothing. I should pay for it but I was short at the time. I talked to Vince tonight. He is very cool.
July 23
On the verge of another Friday...Class and I called Miss Jeong to get my tapes. She was on her way to Seoul for a month. I barely caught her and got my tapes, Carrie went with her but she didn't even say a word to me. I think she is lame somewhat. I will try to tell 기태 to come next weekend if possible. I must go to KBS on Saturday.
July 24
Class and I jammed on class to go to the Paradise Beach Casino. It was a rush and I came out even. Mr. Heil lost 50,000 and Mr. Moon 20,000. Right now Mr. Heil owes me 30,000 but he might not pay it all back to me. At night to Bulkogi dinner. 기태 hasn't called or showed but I didn't go to the 역. Sometimes I don't even know.
*WTF?
Standing at the Back of the Breadline
Busan, South Korea
July 19, 1987
Incredible. The 17th evening went to Xanadu with Miss Jeong. Mistake. I think I must receive all of my tapes and sever all relationships in that area. Anyway, she met a guy and I hung out with his friend 기태. We met 해연 (spelling?). She is sexy but 35*. We played, got milked, and went home. We met Saturday and played. We rented a LeMans. It was a blast. We cruised. He picked up a chick and 6 of us went to Xanadu. I thrashed on Carrie because I wanted 수영. She jammed. They both jammed. We drove all over, picked up people in 서면 and took them home--7 people. I stopped and talked to 유진. She is a rad chick. We drove around yelling out the window at people. Today we cruised around, met Grandi (spelling?) and cruised Nampo-dong saying random Korean words to strangers. Home and I feel a bit disillusioned.
March 18, 2009
When I read entries like that, I think: "Who is this person? Who writes like that"? But I guess that's looking at things through the rosy bifocals of my early 40's. I was living the dream, right?
I don't remember even the faintest thing about 해연, 수영, or 유진. One was "sexy," another "I wanted," and the last was a "rad chick." One would think I'd remember something. Anything? Nothing.
I do remember 기태, however. He was a Korean-American kid (younger than me I believe) who was summering in Seoul and partying in Busan on the occasional weekend. He didn't really speak any Korean so were united in our foreignerness. Possibly worse for him than me. We met on a Friday, hung out all day Saturday driving around in a rented car. Went to the Club on Saturday night, and stayed in touch for at least another week after he returned to Seoul. Of course, I wouldn't know him if we passed in the street today.
I also remember he put his Crowded House cassette tape in and we sang at the top of our lungs as we drove around. Great album that. I impressed him with my knowledge of how they evolved from Split Enz, and, tit for tat, he turned me on to Hunters and Collectors. That in turn later led me to multiple blissout sessions (in the Roboseyo tradition) to this excellent track:
*If I were writing this bit today, I am sure I would use the word "and" instead of "but."
July 19, 1987
Incredible. The 17th evening went to Xanadu with Miss Jeong. Mistake. I think I must receive all of my tapes and sever all relationships in that area. Anyway, she met a guy and I hung out with his friend 기태. We met 해연 (spelling?). She is sexy but 35*. We played, got milked, and went home. We met Saturday and played. We rented a LeMans. It was a blast. We cruised. He picked up a chick and 6 of us went to Xanadu. I thrashed on Carrie because I wanted 수영. She jammed. They both jammed. We drove all over, picked up people in 서면 and took them home--7 people. I stopped and talked to 유진. She is a rad chick. We drove around yelling out the window at people. Today we cruised around, met Grandi (spelling?) and cruised Nampo-dong saying random Korean words to strangers. Home and I feel a bit disillusioned.
March 18, 2009
When I read entries like that, I think: "Who is this person? Who writes like that"? But I guess that's looking at things through the rosy bifocals of my early 40's. I was living the dream, right?
I don't remember even the faintest thing about 해연, 수영, or 유진. One was "sexy," another "I wanted," and the last was a "rad chick." One would think I'd remember something. Anything? Nothing.
I do remember 기태, however. He was a Korean-American kid (younger than me I believe) who was summering in Seoul and partying in Busan on the occasional weekend. He didn't really speak any Korean so were united in our foreignerness. Possibly worse for him than me. We met on a Friday, hung out all day Saturday driving around in a rented car. Went to the Club on Saturday night, and stayed in touch for at least another week after he returned to Seoul. Of course, I wouldn't know him if we passed in the street today.
I also remember he put his Crowded House cassette tape in and we sang at the top of our lungs as we drove around. Great album that. I impressed him with my knowledge of how they evolved from Split Enz, and, tit for tat, he turned me on to Hunters and Collectors. That in turn later led me to multiple blissout sessions (in the Roboseyo tradition) to this excellent track:
*If I were writing this bit today, I am sure I would use the word "and" instead of "but."
"Fraternizing in Hell"
Busan, South Korea 1987
July 17, A.M.:
Up late. It's Friday, no class, a holiday. The night before was the rad typhoon but I was fraternizing in hell*. Then yesterday was class and then we went to The Bistro. I met Miss Shin. She was rad I thought. Then at night I went to the downtown with some students. it was packed and full of plenty of roxies. I met Hye-Jin from Seoul. She was staying at Hangook Condo. I was deeply impressed but to no avail. After separation my heart was full of her and this morning too. Now I have today and tomorrow to blow.
*Here's what really happened on July 16. I'm not thrilled about including this particular portion, and have tried and failed to write it several times. Apologies.
The forecast called for an overnight typhoon. Not uncommon in Busan but unheard of back home. After the last class of the evening, Mr. Moon (a Korean dude with a Canadian passport who taught a couple classes at our institute), Andy (an American--married to a Korean gal--who also taught a class or two), and I went down to the casino. The casino was a sort of getaway for us, a place where Koreans were not even allowed unless they held a foreign passport. Hordes of young Korean agasshis worked there, eager to take orders (one could even get a dish of ice cream brought to their seat at a Blackjack table) and deal cards. We escaped there, had a few drinks, played some table games, and killed a few hours while the typhoon gained strength.
July 17, A.M.:
Up late. It's Friday, no class, a holiday. The night before was the rad typhoon but I was fraternizing in hell*. Then yesterday was class and then we went to The Bistro. I met Miss Shin. She was rad I thought. Then at night I went to the downtown with some students. it was packed and full of plenty of roxies. I met Hye-Jin from Seoul. She was staying at Hangook Condo. I was deeply impressed but to no avail. After separation my heart was full of her and this morning too. Now I have today and tomorrow to blow.
*Here's what really happened on July 16. I'm not thrilled about including this particular portion, and have tried and failed to write it several times. Apologies.
The forecast called for an overnight typhoon. Not uncommon in Busan but unheard of back home. After the last class of the evening, Mr. Moon (a Korean dude with a Canadian passport who taught a couple classes at our institute), Andy (an American--married to a Korean gal--who also taught a class or two), and I went down to the casino. The casino was a sort of getaway for us, a place where Koreans were not even allowed unless they held a foreign passport. Hordes of young Korean agasshis worked there, eager to take orders (one could even get a dish of ice cream brought to their seat at a Blackjack table) and deal cards. We escaped there, had a few drinks, played some table games, and killed a few hours while the typhoon gained strength.
By the time we left the casino, the wind was blowing pretty hard and the rain was starting to spit. We piled in a cab but instead of heading home, we went for a nightcap. Andy directed the taxi to what was clearly a regular stop for him. The Ajumma greeted him by name and walked us through the empty place, out the back door, and into a small room that stood off from the main structure. We sat and waited.
After a bit, a side door opened and in came a young woman with a tray of fruit and several tall bottles of beer. She placed the tray in the center of the room and left. Before we could get the bottles opened, three young ladies entered. One was a bit older than the other two. She greeted Andy familiarly and they both giggled. The other two sat on either side of Mr. Moon and myself.
They dimmed the lights and plied us with drinks and fruit. Mr. Moon asked me if I liked the girl who was feeding me bites of fruit. Since none of the girls spoke English, I told him she was wasn't very cute. It was more hurtful than necessary, and probably spoken more out of discomfort than anything else, but I certainly didn't expect it to be translated. It was translated and she was hurt. She left the room in a huff.
Her replacement was quite a bit larger; I'm pretty sure she outweighed me. But I wasn't cruel enough to send her away too. She cozied up to me and immediately worked my shirt off. Next came hers. We danced an odd kind of slow dance without music, her bare breasts and belly pressed against me. Andy and his partner sat fiddling and giggling over in the corner.
The next morning on the way to work, the streets were littered with debris. Tree limbs blocked the road, signs, and all kinds of trash were strewn all over. It looked nothing like the place I knew when I went to bed the night before. But July 17 had only just begun...
'Tis the Season for Foot Fungus and Dog Meat Stew
Busan, South Korea
July 9, 1987
Class and I sent one package. Went to get my shoes but they weren't what I wanted plus they were big. We'll see. I went and had 보신탕. I bought some 무좀약. It stung worse than anything in the world.
July 10
Class and down to Daeshin to get some papers documented and then to have some 보신탕 and evening class. Tomorrow to KBS and no more plans.
July 11
In the morning to KBS and back. I had planned to go golfing and then go play at the Bistro but on the way to the green net driving range I met Lee Me Ja. She offered to buy me a drink so I accepted. I offered to take her to a movie, she accepted. Then we had dinner. We saw 안개기둥. The sound was terrible. My Korean is very poor. I should practice, study, and concentrate... Only about 6 hours with a student I hardly know. It was fun though.
July 13
Mr. Shin's mother is very sick. Lung cancer. That's too bad. Today to Wendy's.
July 14
Class and the Bistro alone. I saw some rad videos. Class and no Han Mi Hap Dong. I called Carrie. It was a mistake to get involved. I almost feel a little used to aloneness. I ate 주물럭* alone today.
*Jumulleok (주물럭), beef short steaks marinated with sesame oil.
July 9, 1987
Class and I sent one package. Went to get my shoes but they weren't what I wanted plus they were big. We'll see. I went and had 보신탕. I bought some 무좀약. It stung worse than anything in the world.
July 10
Class and down to Daeshin to get some papers documented and then to have some 보신탕 and evening class. Tomorrow to KBS and no more plans.
July 11
In the morning to KBS and back. I had planned to go golfing and then go play at the Bistro but on the way to the green net driving range I met Lee Me Ja. She offered to buy me a drink so I accepted. I offered to take her to a movie, she accepted. Then we had dinner. We saw 안개기둥. The sound was terrible. My Korean is very poor. I should practice, study, and concentrate... Only about 6 hours with a student I hardly know. It was fun though.
July 13
Mr. Shin's mother is very sick. Lung cancer. That's too bad. Today to Wendy's.
July 14
Class and the Bistro alone. I saw some rad videos. Class and no Han Mi Hap Dong. I called Carrie. It was a mistake to get involved. I almost feel a little used to aloneness. I ate 주물럭* alone today.
*Jumulleok (주물럭), beef short steaks marinated with sesame oil.
Who is Captain Preston?
July 4, 1987 Busan, South Korea
Independence Day. Went to the Chosun Beach Hotel and ate an expensive small American breakfast then a Wendy's hamburger. It was fair. I met a young woman. I met Mr. Lee and Miss Cha. We chatted while I saw some rad videos*. I would be content almost to come home. I got a haircut. It should work. Seeing the Heaven 17 videos was the turning point in deciding to move the hair back. Also helpful was the movie on TV including Captain Preston. Mr. Shin bought me a fan. The weather is hot.
July 5
Vince called. He is cool but he seems much different. Tomorrow is payday.
July 6
Class and a nap. Payday. Take home was 850,000. Not much else.
July 7
Class and after it I met Mr. Moon and his class. Some radsters. I am privately digging one called "보경." She is only 18. But fair. Mr. Moon tried to shove us together but she wouldn't have it. Heaven 17 is rad. I opened up a savings account and paid for my stereo. Brian** called and said he will come. I hope all works out fine.
July 8
Today I learned "hoyden." Today a letter from Mom and Brian. Not much. I saw the second half of Platoon today. It is so intense. I am bored with my morning classes already but my last class is very talkative which is nice.
What I left unwritten:
*Near the Institute, I found a 다방 (the place was called "The Bistro," more on it later) that plays music videos on a huge TV. The place is practically empty in the afternoons when I have breaks from classes. The VJ has a sweet collection of videos that I really enjoy. Obviously Heaven 17 figures prominently in there. He lets me sit in the VJ booth and choose which ones to play. It is like my safe haven where I can sate my tastes for home.
**A friend from home who is planning to come work with me at KHI Institute. This process was set in motion before I left the states, but gained earnest momentum when Pat bailed.
Independence Day. Went to the Chosun Beach Hotel and ate an expensive small American breakfast then a Wendy's hamburger. It was fair. I met a young woman. I met Mr. Lee and Miss Cha. We chatted while I saw some rad videos*. I would be content almost to come home. I got a haircut. It should work. Seeing the Heaven 17 videos was the turning point in deciding to move the hair back. Also helpful was the movie on TV including Captain Preston. Mr. Shin bought me a fan. The weather is hot.
July 5
Vince called. He is cool but he seems much different. Tomorrow is payday.
July 6
Class and a nap. Payday. Take home was 850,000. Not much else.
July 7
Class and after it I met Mr. Moon and his class. Some radsters. I am privately digging one called "보경." She is only 18. But fair. Mr. Moon tried to shove us together but she wouldn't have it. Heaven 17 is rad. I opened up a savings account and paid for my stereo. Brian** called and said he will come. I hope all works out fine.
July 8
Today I learned "hoyden." Today a letter from Mom and Brian. Not much. I saw the second half of Platoon today. It is so intense. I am bored with my morning classes already but my last class is very talkative which is nice.
What I left unwritten:
*Near the Institute, I found a 다방 (the place was called "The Bistro," more on it later) that plays music videos on a huge TV. The place is practically empty in the afternoons when I have breaks from classes. The VJ has a sweet collection of videos that I really enjoy. Obviously Heaven 17 figures prominently in there. He lets me sit in the VJ booth and choose which ones to play. It is like my safe haven where I can sate my tastes for home.
**A friend from home who is planning to come work with me at KHI Institute. This process was set in motion before I left the states, but gained earnest momentum when Pat bailed.
It's getting hot in here
Busan, South Korea
June 25, 1987
육이오. 6-25 and all that jazz. Saw relatively little. Class and all. At night Miss Jeong called and said let's go to Xanadu. I said OK. Then I called to see if Carrie was invited. She said, "No." She was upset for that and some other things. She saw me after class. I didn't see her. She said, "기분 나쁜일 한두가지겠나?! I said I don't know and hesitated for a moment and hung up. I almost thought about getting upset but then realized I didn't come here to get screwed over. This is my vacation.
June 28
The day after the above entry, Carrie brushed me off after class. I came home thinking I would never see her again but was content. She was waiting on the porch. She came in and we talked, apparently it was only a game. We went shopping and I spent a fortune but it was fun. I was tired. We saw the famous Miss Yu. She is fat and ugly. She and Miss Jeong were going to Xanadu. Carrie and I were shocked. Anyway I went to the famed Xanadu first day. There were many rad chicks. They played a few good songs but I wasn't interested really.
June 29
Class today and I napped away the afternoon. Last class and I went for tea and then dinner. I am sweating right now. No class tomorrow. But I will be busy anyway.
July 1st
No class yesterday but I had to go out with Mr. Shin and the "others." I hated it. Today was busy with the first day of classes for July summer vacation. I have six classes of my own. I help Mr. Shin with 4 for free. It seems like it could be pretty fun with many people around and stuff. Carrie didn't come but I didn't call her.
July 2
Second day of class. It is very hot. The start of 장마. Mr. An is a geek. Carrie came over much to my regret. She gave me a book to learn the Japanese writing*. I should study. I need more self-discipline. Surprisingly enough I have been jogging a bit recently.
*March 6, 2009
Yes I still have it: 
Don't ask me why 'cuz I have no clue. Before today I hadn't even opened it in probably 20 years. It looks like I used it for a while but quit barely a few letters into the alphabet. My handwriting was terrible; childlike scratchings. I did study Japanese for 2 years at University, but we had textbooks for that.
One might expect Carrie to have given me Korean study books, but she was a bit Japan-obsessed. I already mentioned I have a picture of her in a Kimono standing in front of a Japan Travel poster. Years after we separated, I heard a third-hand rumor that she was in Japan working as a "hostess." No idea if it's true or not.
March 7, 2009
My five-year-old son called me into the bathroom where he was urinating. "Look dad," he said, "My gochu is like a puppet. I can move it up and down without touching it."
I was so proud he was practicing his Korean...
I was so proud he was practicing his Korean...
June 21, 1987
What I wrote in my journal for that day:
June 21. Thursday Carrie came. Friday night met Carrie for a late night. I enjoy just being with her. Saturday haircut and to Kyoungju with Mr. An too. To the Condo and about. Lots of Japanese. Miss Hwang came. She seems like a good friend to them. A little easy. At night to the night club. Absolutely no one there. Back and I was pretty bored. Sunday up late and came right home.
What I didn't write:
Three adult married Korean men from the SamChullyHo factory (a subsidiary of Kia), one younger single Korean maiden(?), and one whitey (me, the only non-smoker) piled into a brand new Kia Pride and made the drive up to Kyoungju. 
I rode shotgun. We made it onto the freeway and I had a moment of anxiety when I looked over at the speedometer and saw we were going 100. Surprised the little Pride (later bought by Ford and sold in the USA as the Festive) could go that fast. Panic. Math. Number crunching. Another look at the speedometer. Big numbers. Little numbers. Relax dude, the big numbers are KPH and the small numbers are MPH. Going 100 is only 62 MPH. Ok.
We stopped along the way in the middle of nowhere and went into an old looking restaurant. We ate some meat and had some Soju and Makeolli. Even the driver. Then we got back in the Pride and pressed on for the capitol of the ancient Shilla Kingdom.
We visited a traditional village at some point that day. The guys got together and bought me a hand-carved wooden mask of the Yangban. It probably goes without saying that I still have it:
A Slippery Slope
Busan, South Korea
June 15, 1987
Class. Home. Carrie came over. She gave me Hawaiian shorts. We talked and kissed. She was nervous and inexperienced. I dig her. We left and I was to be late for class. Trying to take a taxi. Mr. Shin came and I was shaky. I rode off. She loves me which I want for now but later who knows.
June 17
Carrie came again. She is cool. She wanted to learn the French Kiss. After some hesitation...Today I went to Mr. Park's nice house. Went to Haeundae with him and his sister and Mr. An. We may go to Kyoungju to play.
June 21
Thursday Carrie came. Friday night met Carrie for a late night. I enjoy just being with her. Saturday haircut and to Kyoungju with Mr. An too. To the Condo and about. Lots of Japanese. Miss Hwang came. She seems like a good friend to them. A little easy. At night to the night club. Absolutely no one there. Back and I was pretty bored. Sunday up late and came right home.
June 22
Class and spent another day with Carrie. She is rad. Next month it looks like I will get all new students. I will miss some of my cooler students. I wasn't excited when I first heard it but I am OK. Recently I have felt like going to America but today I felt like I could stay for the time. Also I felt Mr. Shin is milking for the joint class concept (한미 합동).
June 23
Class and Carrie and I cruised downtown and around. Nothing much. She is cool. I lost control once today on Miss Kim [institute secretary]. For no reason. I was sorry.
2009. March 5. What I wrote and what I didn't write.
There was a little convenience store right across from my apartment building. I would buy the occasional Ramen or Choco-Pie there (secretly I ate tons of Choco-Pies, but only the Orion brand; not the Lotte brand). What I bought at that store was never enough to please the really old woman who ran the place. She often asked how I survived, what I ate, who cooked for me, etc. I never understood most of what she said, but I tried to use her for local knowledge; looked like she had nothing better to do...
I asked her where to get my comforter washed and she told me to just give it to her and she would take care of it. The next day she returned it. Not only was it washed, but she had hand sewn a matching pink sheet onto it to work as a duvet cover. She never asked for anything in return, just to shop at her store more often. Too sweet.
One day I walked over to the store and she was plucking the gray hairs out of another woman's head. They cackled out loud without covering their mouths and took great joy in trying to teach the foreigner how to say: "새치를 뽑다."
One afternoon Carrie left my apartment and I went across to the little store. The old lady was holding her bible and looking very concerned. The gist of her message to me that day was that if boys and girls spend too much time together, eventually their skin will end up touching and it's all downhill to hell from there.
June 15, 1987
Class. Home. Carrie came over. She gave me Hawaiian shorts. We talked and kissed. She was nervous and inexperienced. I dig her. We left and I was to be late for class. Trying to take a taxi. Mr. Shin came and I was shaky. I rode off. She loves me which I want for now but later who knows.
June 17
Carrie came again. She is cool. She wanted to learn the French Kiss. After some hesitation...Today I went to Mr. Park's nice house. Went to Haeundae with him and his sister and Mr. An. We may go to Kyoungju to play.
June 21
Thursday Carrie came. Friday night met Carrie for a late night. I enjoy just being with her. Saturday haircut and to Kyoungju with Mr. An too. To the Condo and about. Lots of Japanese. Miss Hwang came. She seems like a good friend to them. A little easy. At night to the night club. Absolutely no one there. Back and I was pretty bored. Sunday up late and came right home.
June 22
Class and spent another day with Carrie. She is rad. Next month it looks like I will get all new students. I will miss some of my cooler students. I wasn't excited when I first heard it but I am OK. Recently I have felt like going to America but today I felt like I could stay for the time. Also I felt Mr. Shin is milking for the joint class concept (한미 합동).
June 23
Class and Carrie and I cruised downtown and around. Nothing much. She is cool. I lost control once today on Miss Kim [institute secretary]. For no reason. I was sorry.
2009. March 5. What I wrote and what I didn't write.
There was a little convenience store right across from my apartment building. I would buy the occasional Ramen or Choco-Pie there (secretly I ate tons of Choco-Pies, but only the Orion brand; not the Lotte brand). What I bought at that store was never enough to please the really old woman who ran the place. She often asked how I survived, what I ate, who cooked for me, etc. I never understood most of what she said, but I tried to use her for local knowledge; looked like she had nothing better to do...
I asked her where to get my comforter washed and she told me to just give it to her and she would take care of it. The next day she returned it. Not only was it washed, but she had hand sewn a matching pink sheet onto it to work as a duvet cover. She never asked for anything in return, just to shop at her store more often. Too sweet.
One day I walked over to the store and she was plucking the gray hairs out of another woman's head. They cackled out loud without covering their mouths and took great joy in trying to teach the foreigner how to say: "새치를 뽑다."
One afternoon Carrie left my apartment and I went across to the little store. The old lady was holding her bible and looking very concerned. The gist of her message to me that day was that if boys and girls spend too much time together, eventually their skin will end up touching and it's all downhill to hell from there.
My Best Friend is a Pioneer
Staring at my laptop. I got the 80's music channel on the TV. I only turn it to the 80's when the Alternative channel plays a song I don't like. Just now it was The Raconteurs Live from London and sounding terrible. The 80's channel welcomes me with a true classic: Stone Roses singing "I Wanna Be Adored." Excellent. I a sip on an iced mocha I made on my espresso machine downstairs. In 1987 in Pusan, Coffee was instant and Espresso was unheard of.
June 7, 1987
Sunday. Slept in and went to the 학원 and cut out a rad ad from a magazine and then went to the base and enjoyed a hamburger (delivered to the gate). Went to Haeundae and cruised. Home and spent it in.
June 8
Monday to class. The dude brought my stereo.* It is OK.
June 9
Class and lovely weather. Carrie came over for a while. She is really smart and attractive** and I dig her but she has too many secrets. Lately Mr Moon is a dick and he pulled dick and told me in class that he needs me to be better. I think he is a dick. I was pissed. I mean nothing to them, why do I worry so much for them?
June 12
Went to Young-Do and around there. Mr. Moon hasn't been to class since Tuesday. Hmmm... There are serious demonstrations going on in front of the university these days. Korea Times had a headline with "미국놈들". I don't care. Went and played some table tennis. It was fun. Last night Carrie and Miss Jeong and I went to a dance place. We talked and danced. Carrie and I danced together slow and she is rad. I wanted to rifle her but I couldn't. Tonight we talked for a while on the phone. She tried to tell me she and Miss Jeong are "bananas." Interesting theory. "Yellow skin, white on the inside."
June 14
Yesterday no time. Met the rad duckies and changed tapes, dinner and the "downtown." Expensive but fun. We danced. There were many radsters. I am really impressed with Carrie. I called her and we talked and are apparently hung up on each other. Am I hung up? I think so but why? And is it OK? I don't know. She asked me why I came. Why did I? I would love to love her. But for how long? I've only been here one month. I don't know. Tomorrow is hoop. She said she was coming.
*Yes, I still have it. It's nearly 22 years old:
I bought this stack at the Lotte Pioneer store just down the street from my apartment. It was expensive at the time. But I really needed something to listen to music on. Tapes were cheap and CDs not available yet. So I bought a dual cassette deck, a graphic equalizer, and those two big speakers that would play louder than would ever be acceptable in my apartment complex.
**Secretly I wonder what the protocols are for posting pictures of somebody one hasn't seen or heard from in over 20 years. Somewhere I think I have a super cute picture of her in a Kimono standing in front of a tourism poster of Japan.
June 7, 1987
Sunday. Slept in and went to the 학원 and cut out a rad ad from a magazine and then went to the base and enjoyed a hamburger (delivered to the gate). Went to Haeundae and cruised. Home and spent it in.
June 8
Monday to class. The dude brought my stereo.* It is OK.
June 9
Class and lovely weather. Carrie came over for a while. She is really smart and attractive** and I dig her but she has too many secrets. Lately Mr Moon is a dick and he pulled dick and told me in class that he needs me to be better. I think he is a dick. I was pissed. I mean nothing to them, why do I worry so much for them?
June 12
Went to Young-Do and around there. Mr. Moon hasn't been to class since Tuesday. Hmmm... There are serious demonstrations going on in front of the university these days. Korea Times had a headline with "미국놈들". I don't care. Went and played some table tennis. It was fun. Last night Carrie and Miss Jeong and I went to a dance place. We talked and danced. Carrie and I danced together slow and she is rad. I wanted to rifle her but I couldn't. Tonight we talked for a while on the phone. She tried to tell me she and Miss Jeong are "bananas." Interesting theory. "Yellow skin, white on the inside."
June 14
Yesterday no time. Met the rad duckies and changed tapes, dinner and the "downtown." Expensive but fun. We danced. There were many radsters. I am really impressed with Carrie. I called her and we talked and are apparently hung up on each other. Am I hung up? I think so but why? And is it OK? I don't know. She asked me why I came. Why did I? I would love to love her. But for how long? I've only been here one month. I don't know. Tomorrow is hoop. She said she was coming.
*Yes, I still have it. It's nearly 22 years old:
I bought this stack at the Lotte Pioneer store just down the street from my apartment. It was expensive at the time. But I really needed something to listen to music on. Tapes were cheap and CDs not available yet. So I bought a dual cassette deck, a graphic equalizer, and those two big speakers that would play louder than would ever be acceptable in my apartment complex.**Secretly I wonder what the protocols are for posting pictures of somebody one hasn't seen or heard from in over 20 years. Somewhere I think I have a super cute picture of her in a Kimono standing in front of a tourism poster of Japan.
Culture Shock Photo Series Part 3
South Korea 1987
On the way to the landfill?
On the way to the landfill?
Next time you get to thinking your job stinks...
More about this festival later...
돌아와요. 부산 항에...
On the way to the landfill?
On the way to the landfill?
Next time you get to thinking your job stinks...
Matadorless bull fighting (terrible quality photo; dude's head and the sun got in my way). More often than not, one of the bulls would get "aroused" and try to mount the other. "That's not milk"!
More about this festival later...
돌아와요. 부산 항에... Cutlure Shock Photo Series Cont'd
Countryside of South Korea 1987
Some more slides scanned to digital. I wish I had something witty and insightful to say about each of these, but alas...
Some more slides scanned to digital. I wish I had something witty and insightful to say about each of these, but alas...
One of my favorite scenes:
경주?
Thanks old dude for posing for this.
Thanks old dude for posing for this.
Culture Shock Photo Series
Pusan, South Korea 1987
Buddha's Birthday:
Countryside grave scenes:
I have no idea. Anyone?
Countryside grave scenes:
I have no idea. Anyone?The Market
June 1987 Pusan, South Korea
!Warning: Pictures of dead animals (errr food) below. Sensitive eyes beware!
I was fascinated by the 시장 from the first time I set foot in one. The energy, the activity, the variety... I loved wandering the 5-Day Market in 구포 (that was the first place I saw dogs sliced lengthwise from nose to anus and lined up for sale like sides of beef. It was also the first place I saw a cat with its skin off--it, too, for sale for its meat.).
I could spend hours in the early mornings at 자갈치 just taking in the variety and mystery of the sea creatures (once, in 1997, I stood watching in amazement as a hard-working man deftly peeled the skin off eel after eel and then sliced them up into perfect cross-section circles. An 아줌마 working nearby noticed that both the eel slicer and myself were lacking in the dome hair department. She cracked a joke about how he should teach me to use the knife and we could start an International Baldness Co-operative, and I swear the earth shook from the ripple-effect of granny cackle that passed through that place.).
It strikes me that travelers (or foreigners in a foreign land) take pictures of things for different reasons. Maybe they see something they really want to remember, or something they really want to make fun of, or something that is just plain shocking. The reason would most often be a reflection of the photographer's current level or stage of culture shock (Honeymoon, Negotiation, Adjustment). I know I have photos from all those stages.
This random shot of a market scene could very easily have come from today in Seoul at NamDaeMun market, with grannies squatted behind perfect-looking veggies. But it came from 1987.
Here are a few shots of food from 1987.
I like meat. And food.
!Warning: Pictures of dead animals (errr food) below. Sensitive eyes beware!
I was fascinated by the 시장 from the first time I set foot in one. The energy, the activity, the variety... I loved wandering the 5-Day Market in 구포 (that was the first place I saw dogs sliced lengthwise from nose to anus and lined up for sale like sides of beef. It was also the first place I saw a cat with its skin off--it, too, for sale for its meat.).
I could spend hours in the early mornings at 자갈치 just taking in the variety and mystery of the sea creatures (once, in 1997, I stood watching in amazement as a hard-working man deftly peeled the skin off eel after eel and then sliced them up into perfect cross-section circles. An 아줌마 working nearby noticed that both the eel slicer and myself were lacking in the dome hair department. She cracked a joke about how he should teach me to use the knife and we could start an International Baldness Co-operative, and I swear the earth shook from the ripple-effect of granny cackle that passed through that place.).
It strikes me that travelers (or foreigners in a foreign land) take pictures of things for different reasons. Maybe they see something they really want to remember, or something they really want to make fun of, or something that is just plain shocking. The reason would most often be a reflection of the photographer's current level or stage of culture shock (Honeymoon, Negotiation, Adjustment). I know I have photos from all those stages.
This random shot of a market scene could very easily have come from today in Seoul at NamDaeMun market, with grannies squatted behind perfect-looking veggies. But it came from 1987.
Here are a few shots of food from 1987.
I like meat. And food. Weekends with Han, Part 2
Pusan, South Korea
May 25, 1987
To Kwangan yesterday and Miss Jeong is rad and she has rad friends. We went to the army base and it was OK. Fairly crowded. Today to class and Miss Chang called and we went and played with 2 of her friends. It was OK.
May 28
Time cruises. Mr. Shin has been hassling me about his book. It bothers me. Miss Jeong's raddest friend* came to the 학원. She was interviewed by me and she makes me quiver**, she is so rad and beautiful. She will be in my class***. I am out of money and pretty pissed off. It all came to a head at once. The free-talking class was at my throat and then the travel queen got into it. They are somewhat dissatisfied. So I taught them "ask me if I care."
May 29
Today was the last day of class for this month only to resume on Monday. No more free-talking. Today to Yangsan****. Well not so much to be excited about the weekend. Tomorrow I have to go to KBS and do that stupid program again. We will probably do it weekly. It bothers me because we do it for free and second because it's on Saturday.
May 30
A haircut, a 목욕, to KBS. Saw Jee-young. She is rad but I don't think she cares too much for me. Wandered about aimlessly asking myself what am I doing here. I was very out of it, still am.
May 31
Sunday. Went to Kwangan Beach and it was OK. Missed the NBA. Looks like the Lakers and the Celtics in the finals. Talked with Miss Jeong and her rad friend*. I think they should be my friends. To Hialeah. Tomorrow to Nam Po Dong.
June 3
Monday to Nam Po Dong. Today I went to Hialeah and bought $100 worth of eel skin. It was fine. Miss Kim* is very very wondrous and great.
June 5
Yesterday after class I had a chance to chat with Carrie* for a while. She is fabulous and great. I lent her my Tin Tin tape. She is charming. Tomorrow I had decided to go to Seoul but now I don't know. I could stay and party but I don't know. I don't know. Today to KBS and back. Pay day. Take home was 606,000 because I had already taken an advance of 130,000. Next month I will crank.
June 6
Saturday. I didn't go to Seoul. It was really hot and my face got much sun. Miss Kim* is rad and sexy but I couldn't tell her. Weekends really suck. Why did I come? I know I shouldn't think that but I do on the weekends.
Footnotes added Feb 15, 2009
*Miss Jeong's raddest friend, Miss Kim, and Carrie are all the same person.
**An obvious reference to the Tin Tin song on the tape I later lent to her. I had previously made a copy for Miss Jeong because she was really into music. She, in turn, gave me a copy of Scritti Politti, which I had not heard before but quite enjoyed. "I got a perfect way to make the girls go crazy."
***No surprise there. I would conduct an interview with prospective students to determine their level and assign them to a class. Not a big shock that I put the hot girl in my own class.
****Sam Chully Ho Bicycle company had a site in Yangsan. I drove up and taught English to a group of executives. These guys and this outside job will come up again later. If this were a movie soundtrack, some ominous and dramatic music would be playing...
May 25, 1987
To Kwangan yesterday and Miss Jeong is rad and she has rad friends. We went to the army base and it was OK. Fairly crowded. Today to class and Miss Chang called and we went and played with 2 of her friends. It was OK.
May 28
Time cruises. Mr. Shin has been hassling me about his book. It bothers me. Miss Jeong's raddest friend* came to the 학원. She was interviewed by me and she makes me quiver**, she is so rad and beautiful. She will be in my class***. I am out of money and pretty pissed off. It all came to a head at once. The free-talking class was at my throat and then the travel queen got into it. They are somewhat dissatisfied. So I taught them "ask me if I care."
May 29
Today was the last day of class for this month only to resume on Monday. No more free-talking. Today to Yangsan****. Well not so much to be excited about the weekend. Tomorrow I have to go to KBS and do that stupid program again. We will probably do it weekly. It bothers me because we do it for free and second because it's on Saturday.
May 30
A haircut, a 목욕, to KBS. Saw Jee-young. She is rad but I don't think she cares too much for me. Wandered about aimlessly asking myself what am I doing here. I was very out of it, still am.
May 31
Sunday. Went to Kwangan Beach and it was OK. Missed the NBA. Looks like the Lakers and the Celtics in the finals. Talked with Miss Jeong and her rad friend*. I think they should be my friends. To Hialeah. Tomorrow to Nam Po Dong.
June 3
Monday to Nam Po Dong. Today I went to Hialeah and bought $100 worth of eel skin. It was fine. Miss Kim* is very very wondrous and great.
June 5
Yesterday after class I had a chance to chat with Carrie* for a while. She is fabulous and great. I lent her my Tin Tin tape. She is charming. Tomorrow I had decided to go to Seoul but now I don't know. I could stay and party but I don't know. I don't know. Today to KBS and back. Pay day. Take home was 606,000 because I had already taken an advance of 130,000. Next month I will crank.
June 6
Saturday. I didn't go to Seoul. It was really hot and my face got much sun. Miss Kim* is rad and sexy but I couldn't tell her. Weekends really suck. Why did I come? I know I shouldn't think that but I do on the weekends.
Footnotes added Feb 15, 2009
*Miss Jeong's raddest friend, Miss Kim, and Carrie are all the same person.
**An obvious reference to the Tin Tin song on the tape I later lent to her. I had previously made a copy for Miss Jeong because she was really into music. She, in turn, gave me a copy of Scritti Politti, which I had not heard before but quite enjoyed. "I got a perfect way to make the girls go crazy."
***No surprise there. I would conduct an interview with prospective students to determine their level and assign them to a class. Not a big shock that I put the hot girl in my own class.
****Sam Chully Ho Bicycle company had a site in Yangsan. I drove up and taught English to a group of executives. These guys and this outside job will come up again later. If this were a movie soundtrack, some ominous and dramatic music would be playing...
Weekends with Han
(Don't read too much into this post title; obviously I am not going to attempt to capture in 7oo words or less the depth of meaning one could infer from such a label. But it can be taken literally and figuratively.)
May 15, 1987 Pusan, South Korea
The Subway opened to Joongang Dong. I didn't ride it. Tomorrow is Saturday. I will have to go to the mountain*.
May 16
To the mountain with Mr. Shin and Miss Han. It was cold and boring but we ate very much. After that I drove us to Nae Won Sa and then I went downtown with Miss Han. We walked around and met Mr. Kim and his girlfriend. They are cool. I sent Miss Han off and walked around and bought Talk Talk - Colour of Spring**. Wow I am a shambles. It is a lot different than what I thought it would be here.
May 19
After class, Mr Kim the Tiger*** took me to Kwang-An beach. We ate 15,000 worth of Bulkogi. It was fun. Today class and after I went to BNU. Traditional wedding was boring but I got some good sun. Except for Intermediate and Free Talking class, I love it. We'll see.
May 20
Mom and Dad called last night. They think they are worried. Time flies. Class and not much else. Kim Ae-jeong**** is rad. Tomorrow to KBS and we will do an English program. FOR FREE. Thanks Mr. Shin. I forgot Dad's B-day.
May 21
Class and nothing new. We went to KBS and recorded for broadcast of English. We did it for free. Back to class and tear gas***** poured in and we hated it. After class a little fish and some Udong. I would rather make more money. Nothing much to write.
The biggest difference between a blog and a journal (aside from the whole words in ether vs ink and paper thing) is the fact that one writes a blog hoping at least somebody reads it, and one writes a journal thinking nobody but oneself reads it. Unless you turn famous and die and your biographer gets his/her hands on it, that is. But that's certainly not the case here. There's quite some problems with writing something thinking no one else will ever read it. First, it's not very readable. Second, and most significant, 22 years later the writer (me, in this case) cannot even remember much about the events he recorded.
Footnotes added Feb 14, 2009:
*I have no idea what mountain to which this journal entry refers. It sounds like I had to ride the donkey to the oracle to receive higher learning or something. I don't remember. But I am sure that I was the only person not dressed in full-on mountain climbing gear just for a casual stroll up a hill.
**Yes I still have the tape. Of course I own the CD too now. "Baby, life's what you make it." Great album indeed.
***I have no recollection of this dude. It's too bad too because his nickname makes him sound really cool. And a bit scary.
****I have no recollection of this "rad" chick. A single teardrop.
*****With the close proximity of the Institute to BNU, it was quite common in the summer of 1987 to be overcome with tear gas and Anti-American sentiment.
May 15, 1987 Pusan, South Korea
The Subway opened to Joongang Dong. I didn't ride it. Tomorrow is Saturday. I will have to go to the mountain*.
May 16
To the mountain with Mr. Shin and Miss Han. It was cold and boring but we ate very much. After that I drove us to Nae Won Sa and then I went downtown with Miss Han. We walked around and met Mr. Kim and his girlfriend. They are cool. I sent Miss Han off and walked around and bought Talk Talk - Colour of Spring**. Wow I am a shambles. It is a lot different than what I thought it would be here.
May 19
After class, Mr Kim the Tiger*** took me to Kwang-An beach. We ate 15,000 worth of Bulkogi. It was fun. Today class and after I went to BNU. Traditional wedding was boring but I got some good sun. Except for Intermediate and Free Talking class, I love it. We'll see.
May 20
Mom and Dad called last night. They think they are worried. Time flies. Class and not much else. Kim Ae-jeong**** is rad. Tomorrow to KBS and we will do an English program. FOR FREE. Thanks Mr. Shin. I forgot Dad's B-day.
May 21
Class and nothing new. We went to KBS and recorded for broadcast of English. We did it for free. Back to class and tear gas***** poured in and we hated it. After class a little fish and some Udong. I would rather make more money. Nothing much to write.
The biggest difference between a blog and a journal (aside from the whole words in ether vs ink and paper thing) is the fact that one writes a blog hoping at least somebody reads it, and one writes a journal thinking nobody but oneself reads it. Unless you turn famous and die and your biographer gets his/her hands on it, that is. But that's certainly not the case here. There's quite some problems with writing something thinking no one else will ever read it. First, it's not very readable. Second, and most significant, 22 years later the writer (me, in this case) cannot even remember much about the events he recorded.
Footnotes added Feb 14, 2009:
*I have no idea what mountain to which this journal entry refers. It sounds like I had to ride the donkey to the oracle to receive higher learning or something. I don't remember. But I am sure that I was the only person not dressed in full-on mountain climbing gear just for a casual stroll up a hill.
**Yes I still have the tape. Of course I own the CD too now. "Baby, life's what you make it." Great album indeed.
***I have no recollection of this dude. It's too bad too because his nickname makes him sound really cool. And a bit scary.
****I have no recollection of this "rad" chick. A single teardrop.
*****With the close proximity of the Institute to BNU, it was quite common in the summer of 1987 to be overcome with tear gas and Anti-American sentiment.
Seascapes
May 1987 Pusan, South Korea
I grew up in a small high-desert town of about 14,000 people. From the back window of our house I could see the night lights at the closest ski resort. My parents, on the other hand, grew up in Los Angeles very near the ocean. They both spent a lot of time at the beach and in the salty water. Me, not so much.
One day in class, I mentioned to my students that I wanted to get out of Pusan and see some scenery. One student offered to take a group of us to his hometown of 충무 in Kyoung Sang South Province. I jumped at the chance. A handful of us piled in a bus one weekend and headed to the seaside/countryside.
I don't remember much about the trip or the students who went along, but these 20-year old slides scanned to digital still capture the beauty of that day:
Snarlfest
May 1987, Pusan South Korea
I was walking along minding my own business in the Sajik area of Pusan near the baseball stadium. I came around a corner and there was a huge, colorful, painted advertisement. The graphic picture told what was going on behind the gates, even though I did not know the Korean words on the sign (투견대회).
Like a geeker at a car accident, I stepped through the gate into an open space between other buildings. It was like a 3-story office building had been razed to create the perfect, semi-secluded venue for the day's entertainment. The fights were already in progress and the mostly male onlookers were rapt. I approached the cage with my camera at the ready, but a Korean gentleman in a blue suit came up, gently took me by the arm and escorted me up onto the stage where the other apparent VIPs were seated. The rest of the fans (the common folk?) were gathered below.
A young lady timidly walked over and, using both hands, handed me a cold Bacchus D. (My first intro to "Energy Drinks", I am pretty sure it has nicotine in it along with a host of other stimulants. Since then I believe Dong-A Chemicals has graduated to Bacchus F--not sure what happened to Bacchus E. Probably no point in questioning their claim it is one of the first energy drinks ever created...)
If the fighting didn't get your blood going, this drink sure would do the trick.
From my VIP seat I watched and snapped off a few slides. A huge dog and a trainer would enter from each side of the cage. The dogs were frothing and chomping to attack. An offical blew his whistle, the trainers released the dogs, and the dogs flew through the air at each other in full attack mode:
They snarled and tried to lock their jaws on the other's neck until one turned tail and ran. An official or trainer would step in and end the bout.
After watching a few rounds, I went down ringside and got a close-up of the action. These dogs don't like each other. It's difficult to tell from this snap, but much of the dark stains on the white bars is dog blood.
I gave a courtesy bow to my host and strolled out of the gate into the bright sun. I had never seen anything like it before (nor ever again since). Over the years I have had many a Korean deny the existence of such brutality.
I was walking along minding my own business in the Sajik area of Pusan near the baseball stadium. I came around a corner and there was a huge, colorful, painted advertisement. The graphic picture told what was going on behind the gates, even though I did not know the Korean words on the sign (투견대회).
Like a geeker at a car accident, I stepped through the gate into an open space between other buildings. It was like a 3-story office building had been razed to create the perfect, semi-secluded venue for the day's entertainment. The fights were already in progress and the mostly male onlookers were rapt. I approached the cage with my camera at the ready, but a Korean gentleman in a blue suit came up, gently took me by the arm and escorted me up onto the stage where the other apparent VIPs were seated. The rest of the fans (the common folk?) were gathered below.
A young lady timidly walked over and, using both hands, handed me a cold Bacchus D. (My first intro to "Energy Drinks", I am pretty sure it has nicotine in it along with a host of other stimulants. Since then I believe Dong-A Chemicals has graduated to Bacchus F--not sure what happened to Bacchus E. Probably no point in questioning their claim it is one of the first energy drinks ever created...)
If the fighting didn't get your blood going, this drink sure would do the trick.
From my VIP seat I watched and snapped off a few slides. A huge dog and a trainer would enter from each side of the cage. The dogs were frothing and chomping to attack. An offical blew his whistle, the trainers released the dogs, and the dogs flew through the air at each other in full attack mode:
They snarled and tried to lock their jaws on the other's neck until one turned tail and ran. An official or trainer would step in and end the bout.After watching a few rounds, I went down ringside and got a close-up of the action. These dogs don't like each other. It's difficult to tell from this snap, but much of the dark stains on the white bars is dog blood.
I gave a courtesy bow to my host and strolled out of the gate into the bright sun. I had never seen anything like it before (nor ever again since). Over the years I have had many a Korean deny the existence of such brutality. Nevertheless, I was there, and I did see it. And I was not expecting that.
Rice
Where I work today (February 2009) we have a creative printing studio that is free for all employees. One can upload and print images, make calendars with photos of one's own choosing, and generally burn through paper and mass amounts of printer ink and toner without ever cracking a wallet. There are some limits (like you can only print out 5 custom calendars per month, 5 24" x 36" posters per month, 25 greeting cards per month, etc...), but it definitely is a perk worth taking advantage of.
Most of the pictures I took in Korea over 20 years ago were developed into slides. I think I thought slides would weather the test of time better than photos. The net result today is that I have tons of slides that nobody will ever see. (Secretly I do have a slide projector in my garage and I could put on a mean show, but I never have been the type to load every single photo from a digital camera up into Flickr or Facebook just because I took the picture. I only load ones I like and that I think turned out well. Show some discernment people please!)
At the creative printing studio there is a scanner with an adapter for scanning slides. One can scan 12 or 16 slides at one time. I am just learning how to use it. The quality--as you'll see below--is not always great, but it allows me to share a few nuggets from days gone by. Here is the first in a series of such slides scanned to digital.
May 1987. Rice:
I grew up with a huge cornfield right across the street from my house. Down the hill behind was Mint, Sugar Beets, Potatoes, Onions. We had a strong FFA group at my high school. I certainly was no stranger to agriculture, but I had never seen rice farmed before arriving in Korea. I guess that is the main reason I took the following pictures of rice.
Driving from Pusan to the burbs to teach English at a corporate gig:
Most of the pictures I took in Korea over 20 years ago were developed into slides. I think I thought slides would weather the test of time better than photos. The net result today is that I have tons of slides that nobody will ever see. (Secretly I do have a slide projector in my garage and I could put on a mean show, but I never have been the type to load every single photo from a digital camera up into Flickr or Facebook just because I took the picture. I only load ones I like and that I think turned out well. Show some discernment people please!)
At the creative printing studio there is a scanner with an adapter for scanning slides. One can scan 12 or 16 slides at one time. I am just learning how to use it. The quality--as you'll see below--is not always great, but it allows me to share a few nuggets from days gone by. Here is the first in a series of such slides scanned to digital.
May 1987. Rice:
I grew up with a huge cornfield right across the street from my house. Down the hill behind was Mint, Sugar Beets, Potatoes, Onions. We had a strong FFA group at my high school. I certainly was no stranger to agriculture, but I had never seen rice farmed before arriving in Korea. I guess that is the main reason I took the following pictures of rice.
Driving from Pusan to the burbs to teach English at a corporate gig:
Let's take a break here and finish up tomorrow:
This looks like as good a place as any to dry the rice:
One time in Maui in 2005-ish, we took our 2-year old son to a Korean restaurant. We ordered full meals for ourselves, but only steamed rice for him. Oddly, the 아줌마 was very surprised by that. I was surprised that she was surprised. Sometimes I just can't help myself and I told her it was perfectly natural because the boy's father was a Korean farmer from 경상남도 in a previous life. She gave a look somewhere between shock, confusion, belief, and offended Christian sensibility. But all she could muster was:
"그렇구나."
I'll let you, the reader, provide your own translation of that...
Clearly Not a Honeymoon
May 20, 1987
It has taken only a month for me to fall into Shin's routine. Twice a week after our last night class we head to his favorite watering hole. This place--the name I can't recall--has several counters that each serve a different specialty. Generally we go to the same spot, order up some spicy grilled Octopus, and choke it down with Soju. Every time I lobby for some meat, but rarely does it cross my lips.
In the background, Karaoke is in full effect (this isn't Karaoke in the 노래방 sense; this is Karaoke with the whole basement level as your audience. I don't think they had even invented the private song room (NRB) concept back then.). Shin typically waits until his face is flushed red with Soju courage before pulling a number to go up and sing Sinatra's My Way. Again.
On top of the fact that I feel like an advertisement or a party gimmick trotted out to garner attention, my discomfort is compounded by the company we usually have on these outings. We are rolling with a Miss Han and a Miss Choi. The Miss Choi is a student from Shin's last class who goes almost everywhere with him as long as his wife isn't going. She has a troubled complexion and is heavy enough so that if she were a foreigner, Koreans would always ask her why she is so fat. She is a nice person and smart, but I remember thinking if one were to need something beyond what the wife can provide (not making a moral judgment here), one should choose a partner that would make getting caught worth it. Miss Choi doesn't hit that mark.
The Miss Han is a PNU college gal; taller than most and much slimmer than Miss Choi. She is usually dressed in blue jeans with heels. Her English is weak, and I get the feeling she is just there to keep me from being the third wheel. We are both enablers of the Shin+Choi trysts it seems. Miss Han and I sit silently most of the time not even looking at each other. Ahhh, 건배.
When we're done eating, drinking, and singing, we put Miss Han in a taxi. We three pile in the Pony and head home. They two usually drop me off and that's as far as I care to know about where they go or what they do.
Shin, at 5'4" and 130 lbs. (being genereous...) occasionally needs to pass out in the back seat with his head on Miss Choi's lap. Opposite of cute. Miss Choi has no driver's license. I don't have an international license, but sometimes I have to do the honors. 
I'm clearly not even a "Cosmopolitan."
Still Flashing (Forward, that is...)
Jan 30, 2009
What it Means to be a Failed Koreanist, Part 3 (final chapter. for now...).
There on the kitchen window sill next to 집사람's Nike watch sits a piece of Korean traditional art. What makes it art? What distinguishes it from the cheap-o ones just like it that you can get anywhere in Land of the Morning Calm? I don't know. But I paid more money than I care to admit for this (and another one just like it) in Insa-dong many years ago. I gave one to a friend as a gift. The first thing he did was cut the string, open it, and look inside. I, on the other hand, have never opened mine. Ever. I think it looks cool like that. Sometimes I do wonder if there isn't some treasure inside (the Lottery numbers per chance?). But to quote JuJu Club lyrics completely out of context: "견뎌야 하겠지."
I've been to Jeju Island four times in three decades. Long ago I picked up this stone grandfather. He protects my house from his perch next to some old books I've read. He looks like he had a cigarette put out on his face, but that isn't what happened. I found him that way. He had a partner at one point, but I "lent" that one to a friend when she moved into a new apartment. I haven't seen that one in over 10 years. Perhaps I never will.
I used to think I was a mask collector. The wife doesn't think so. She thinks I am a guy with a few masks on the floor of a room that has a bunch of Korean books I never read. But I like books. And masks. The smaller four masks on the left side of the photo are hand made. One day in the future of this story, I'll eventually catch up to 1997 when I helped make these. A few culture-minded Korean fellows and myself would pile dried rice stalks in a big cauldron of water and burn the fire under it. After days of repeated boilings, the concoction would turn into a kind of sludge. We would pack the rice stalk sludge into molds to give them the mask shapes seen below. Dry. Paint. Sell. Repeat. Makes me nostalgic for Soju and persimmons (more on all that later. Much later).
That's all I have to say about that for now. This Failed Koreanist series had a good run, but now back to 1987 where this whole thing started.
What it Means to be a Failed Koreanist, Part 3 (final chapter. for now...).
There on the kitchen window sill next to 집사람's Nike watch sits a piece of Korean traditional art. What makes it art? What distinguishes it from the cheap-o ones just like it that you can get anywhere in Land of the Morning Calm? I don't know. But I paid more money than I care to admit for this (and another one just like it) in Insa-dong many years ago. I gave one to a friend as a gift. The first thing he did was cut the string, open it, and look inside. I, on the other hand, have never opened mine. Ever. I think it looks cool like that. Sometimes I do wonder if there isn't some treasure inside (the Lottery numbers per chance?). But to quote JuJu Club lyrics completely out of context: "견뎌야 하겠지."
I've been to Jeju Island four times in three decades. Long ago I picked up this stone grandfather. He protects my house from his perch next to some old books I've read. He looks like he had a cigarette put out on his face, but that isn't what happened. I found him that way. He had a partner at one point, but I "lent" that one to a friend when she moved into a new apartment. I haven't seen that one in over 10 years. Perhaps I never will.
I used to think I was a mask collector. The wife doesn't think so. She thinks I am a guy with a few masks on the floor of a room that has a bunch of Korean books I never read. But I like books. And masks. The smaller four masks on the left side of the photo are hand made. One day in the future of this story, I'll eventually catch up to 1997 when I helped make these. A few culture-minded Korean fellows and myself would pile dried rice stalks in a big cauldron of water and burn the fire under it. After days of repeated boilings, the concoction would turn into a kind of sludge. We would pack the rice stalk sludge into molds to give them the mask shapes seen below. Dry. Paint. Sell. Repeat. Makes me nostalgic for Soju and persimmons (more on all that later. Much later).
I keep the drawer on my nighstand tied shut with a rope. I don't want the offspring or the woman to go poking around in the 짬뽕 of trinkets I keep ratholed in there. Here's a few highlights pictured:
-Tourist Map of BukHanSan on a bandana.
-Wooden Buddha wrist beads.
-Incheon Airport Ball Pen on a lanyard.
-School pin from somewhere called "금옥."
-Matchbox from Denny's in Seoul.
-An envelope of medicine from the corner 약국. I presented with diarrhea and vomiting. The first question they asked was, "Did you eat spicy food"? I said, "What do you think"?
-A box of "Fantasy" condoms I bought from a vending machine in a "여관" in Jinju city when I was there for my second 개천예술제.
-Hand carved mini mask on a hand dyed and hand sewn bolo--gifted to me by aforementioned culture-minded Korean fellow.
That is one deep drawer (figuratively speaking...)
That's all I have to say about that for now. This Failed Koreanist series had a good run, but now back to 1987 where this whole thing started.
Still in the Present Day
Jan 28, 2009
What it means to be a Failed Koreanist, Part 2
In addition to the stacks of read and unread books on Korea, I've got random mementos and souvenirs hanging out in all corners of my house. I've got a room upstairs where I occasionally "work from home." Nobody is allowed in there but me. In the closet next to baby sister's Halloween Mouse costume hangs the beloved 태극기 :
Peacefully dangling from the doorknob in my son's room is this bolo. Sometimes number 1 puts it on and parades around with it. Daddy so happy:
My grandmother was confined to a wheelchair most of her adult life. When my grandfather finally got too weak to take care of her, they moved in with my aunt. My father and I went down to sunny Arizona and packed up their condo and drove it to Oregon. My payment for that effort included this small china hutch. I filled it with little bowls and mini kimchi pots I bought in 인사동 at one point. (I can never remember what they call the pots they put the kimchi in, and that really bugs me. Especially because of all the other useless trash in my brain that I can't forget):
Like a middle school girl, my backpack is festooned with all manner of hangy-thingys. For Korea travel info dial 1330. And use the soft backside to wipe the screen on your mobile. A colleague gifted me the money bag mobile 꼬리. The Soju bottle broke off leaving only the opener. The poker chip is not legal tender in any country, but it bears the label of 중문 resort on Jeju island. I bought in Seoul:
I took this picture at 경복궁 and printed it out. For a while it hung in my cubicle at work but I got tired of answering questions about it. One time when I was leaving Korea, I gave a phone card that had several thousand left on it to a worker girl at the Ginseng counter at the airport. In return, she gave me the cup with the 한복-clad girls on the swing:
What it means to be a Failed Koreanist, Part 2
In addition to the stacks of read and unread books on Korea, I've got random mementos and souvenirs hanging out in all corners of my house. I've got a room upstairs where I occasionally "work from home." Nobody is allowed in there but me. In the closet next to baby sister's Halloween Mouse costume hangs the beloved 태극기 :
Peacefully dangling from the doorknob in my son's room is this bolo. Sometimes number 1 puts it on and parades around with it. Daddy so happy:My grandmother was confined to a wheelchair most of her adult life. When my grandfather finally got too weak to take care of her, they moved in with my aunt. My father and I went down to sunny Arizona and packed up their condo and drove it to Oregon. My payment for that effort included this small china hutch. I filled it with little bowls and mini kimchi pots I bought in 인사동 at one point. (I can never remember what they call the pots they put the kimchi in, and that really bugs me. Especially because of all the other useless trash in my brain that I can't forget):
Like a middle school girl, my backpack is festooned with all manner of hangy-thingys. For Korea travel info dial 1330. And use the soft backside to wipe the screen on your mobile. A colleague gifted me the money bag mobile 꼬리. The Soju bottle broke off leaving only the opener. The poker chip is not legal tender in any country, but it bears the label of 중문 resort on Jeju island. I bought in Seoul: I took this picture at 경복궁 and printed it out. For a while it hung in my cubicle at work but I got tired of answering questions about it. One time when I was leaving Korea, I gave a phone card that had several thousand left on it to a worker girl at the Ginseng counter at the airport. In return, she gave me the cup with the 한복-clad girls on the swing: Who else would really hang on to all this crap?
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